How to Remove Weeds Between Pavers
Weeds growing between pavers are the most common maintenance issue homeowners face with paver patios, driveways, and walkways. Even a perfectly installed hardscape will eventually see weed growth because dirt and seeds settle into the joints over time.
The good news: weeds between pavers are fixable, and with the right prevention strategy, you can keep them from coming back. This guide covers 9 removal methods ranked from most to least effective, followed by the long-term prevention steps that actually work.
The most important thing to understand upfront: the weeds are a symptom, not the disease. If weeds keep coming back in the same spots, the root cause is almost always degraded or missing polymeric sand in the joints. Kill the weeds all you want, but until you fix the joints, they will return.
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Why Weeds Grow Between Pavers in the First Place
Before you start pulling, spraying, or burning, it helps to understand what you are actually fighting. Weeds do not grow up from under a properly installed paver system. The compacted base rock and bedding sand beneath your pavers are hostile environments for root growth.
What actually happens is this: wind, rain, and foot traffic deposit a thin layer of dirt, dust, and organic debris into the joints between pavers. Seeds land in that accumulated dirt. With a little moisture, they germinate. The weed roots grow in the dirt that has settled between the pavers, not in the base material below.
This is why the solution is two-fold: remove the weeds that exist now, and then seal the joints to prevent new dirt and seeds from accumulating.
If your pavers were installed without geotextile fabric beneath the base, or if the original polymeric sand has washed out over time, the weed problem will be significantly worse. In those cases, the long-term fix may require a professional re-sanding rather than just surface-level weed removal.
9 Ways to Remove Weeds Between Pavers
Ranked from most effective to least effective. For best results, combine a removal method with the prevention steps at the bottom of this guide.
1. Boiling Water (Most Effective Natural Method)
Boiling water kills weeds on contact, including seeds and shallow roots. It is free, requires no chemicals, and works immediately. Pour it directly onto the weeds growing in the joints, concentrating on the base of the plant where the stem meets the soil.
Why it works better than most alternatives: Unlike vinegar or salt, boiling water does not leave any chemical residue, does not risk etching your pavers, and will not damage surrounding soil or plantings once it cools. It kills through thermal shock rather than chemical action.
Limitation: Boiling water is a non-selective killer. Aim carefully and avoid splashing onto wanted plants nearby. For large areas, you may need multiple trips to the stove, which makes this method more practical for targeted spot treatment than for an entire 1,000 square foot patio.
2. Pull Weeds by Hand
Hand-pulling is the most tedious method but offers the best chance of removing the entire root, which means the weed is less likely to grow back in the same spot. This is the method professional paver maintenance crews use before re-sanding joints.
Two tips that make a real difference: First, wet the area 20 to 30 minutes before pulling. Damp soil releases roots much more easily than dry soil. In San Diego’s dry climate, this step is critical because the joint material is often bone dry. Second, pull weeds before they go to seed. If you see flower heads forming, get them out immediately to prevent the plant from scattering thousands of seeds into the surrounding joints.
3. Use Specialized Weeding Tools
Standard garden tools are too wide for paver joints. Purpose-built paver weeding tools are designed for the narrow gaps between stones. Options include Cape Cod weeders, v-notch weeders, soil knives, and dedicated paver joint tools available at home improvement stores for $8 to $25.
The advantage over bare-handed pulling is that these tools can grip deeper into the joint and extract more of the taproot. When the taproot is left behind (common with hand pulling), the weed regrows from the same location within weeks.
4. Pressure Washer with Fan Nozzle
A pressure washer can blast weeds out of joints quickly, and it cleans the paver surface at the same time. This is the fastest method for large areas.
Critical warning: Use a fan nozzle (25 or 40 degree), never a jet nozzle. A jet nozzle concentrates enough pressure to etch the surface of your pavers and blast the bedding sand out from under them, which creates low spots and destabilizes the surface. A rotating surface cleaner attachment is the safest option for large areas.
After pressure washing, you will almost certainly need to re-apply polymeric sand because the water will wash out some of the existing joint material. Plan for this as part of the process, not as an afterthought.
5. Vinegar (Use with Caution)
Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) will kill weed foliage on contact but does not kill roots. Horticultural vinegar (20% acetic acid) is significantly more effective but comes with real risks: it can etch and discolor paver surfaces, especially lighter-colored concrete pavers and natural stone.
If you use vinegar, apply it with a spray bottle aimed directly at the weed, not broadcast across the paver surface. Adding a teaspoon of dish soap per cup helps the vinegar adhere to the leaves. Wear eye protection when using 20% concentration.
Our recommendation: Boiling water is more effective, cheaper, and carries zero risk of damaging your pavers. We suggest trying boiling water before reaching for vinegar.
6. Baking Soda
Sprinkling baking soda directly into the joints between pavers creates an alkaline environment that inhibits weed growth. It can kill existing small weeds and help prevent new ones from germinating.
The downsides: baking soda washes away with rain or irrigation, so it needs to be reapplied regularly. It is also non-selective, meaning runoff can affect nearby plantings. This method works best as a supplemental preventive measure between more thorough cleanings, not as a primary removal strategy for established weeds.
7. Salt
Salt kills virtually any plant it contacts. Sprinkling it into paver joints will kill existing weeds and temporarily prevent new growth. However, salt creates serious collateral damage: irrigation and rainfall dissolve the salt and carry it into surrounding soil, where it can kill wanted plants and degrade soil quality for years.
We do not recommend salt for paver joints in San Diego. In a climate where drought-tolerant landscaping is essential and every inch of usable soil matters, introducing salt contamination is a bad trade. Use boiling water or hand pulling instead.
8. Weed Torch
A propane weed torch (available for $30 to $50 at hardware stores) kills weeds through direct flame application. The flame does not need to incinerate the plant. A 1 to 2 second pass is enough to rupture the cell walls, and the weed wilts and dies within hours.
Fire safety is non-negotiable. Do not use a weed torch near dry vegetation, mulch beds, wood fences, or any combustible material. In San Diego, particularly during fire season (June through October) and in Wildland-Urban Interface (WUI) zones, open-flame tools near landscaping are a significant liability. Check local fire regulations before using this method.
9. Organic Herbicide (Last Resort)
Commercial herbicides work, but most contain chemicals that can damage your pavers, contaminate soil, and pose health risks to children and pets who use the outdoor space. If you go this route, choose an organic, non-toxic formulation.
Select a selective herbicide if you have wanted plants nearby (it targets specific weed types). Choose non-selective if the weeds are far from other plantings. Most organic options are non-selective, so apply them carefully with a targeted spray, not a broadcast application.
Our honest recommendation: if the weed problem is severe enough that you are considering herbicides, the real solution is almost certainly a professional re-sanding of your paver joints. Herbicide treats the symptom. New polymeric sand treats the cause.
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How to Prevent Weeds Between Pavers Long-Term
Removing existing weeds is step one. Preventing them from coming back is step two, and it is the step most homeowners skip. Here is what actually works for long-term prevention.
Re-Sand with Polymeric Sand
This is the single most effective thing you can do. Polymeric sand is a specialized joint filler that hardens when activated with water, creating a semi-rigid bond between pavers. When properly applied, it fills the joints completely, leaving no space for dirt accumulation or seed germination.
Over time (typically 3 to 5 years depending on traffic and weather exposure), polymeric sand breaks down and washes out. When you start seeing gaps in your joints or weeds returning in specific areas, it is time to re-sand. The process involves removing the old sand with a pressure washer, letting the joints dry completely, sweeping in new polymeric sand, compacting it with a plate compactor, and activating it with a controlled water application.
The activation step is critical. Too little water and the polymeric sand will not bind. Too much water and you wash the binder to the surface, creating a hazy white film on your pavers that is extremely difficult to remove. This is the main reason we recommend professional application for re-sanding. The margin for error is narrow.
Seal Your Pavers
After re-sanding, applying a paver sealer locks the polymeric sand in place and creates a barrier that repels dirt, stains, and organic debris. Sealed pavers are dramatically easier to maintain and resist weed growth more effectively than unsealed surfaces.
Sealers come in two main finishes: matte (natural look) and wet-look (enhanced, darkened color). Both provide the same protective function. In San Diego’s intense UV environment, expect to reseal every 3 to 5 years to maintain effectiveness. For more information on paver longevity and maintenance, see our guide on paver costs and installation.
Ensure Proper Installation from the Start
If you are planning a new paver project (or replacing an existing hardscape), the best weed prevention starts during installation. A properly built paver system includes geotextile fabric beneath the base to block any vegetation from pushing up through the aggregate, a fully compacted Class II base rock layer, proper bedding sand, polymeric joint sand, and sealed edges.
If your existing paver installation skipped any of these layers (particularly the geotextile fabric or the polymeric sand), retrofitting them is difficult but possible. In severe cases, the most cost-effective long-term solution is to lift the pavers, install the missing layers, and reset the surface correctly. For details on what a proper installation requires, read our San Diego Hardscape Engineering Guide.
Professional Paver Cleaning and Re-Sanding in San Diego
For homeowners who want a complete reset rather than ongoing DIY weed battles, professional paver cleaning and re-sanding is the definitive solution. The process typically includes pressure washing the entire surface, removing all old joint material, allowing the joints to dry fully, re-sanding with premium polymeric sand, compacting, activating, and optionally sealing the surface.
In San Diego, professional paver cleaning and re-sanding typically costs $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot depending on the condition of the existing surface and whether sealing is included. For a 500 square foot patio, that is roughly $750 to $1,750. For a 1,000 square foot driveway, $1,500 to $3,500. This is a fraction of the cost of a new installation and can make a 10-year-old paver surface look and perform like new.
Not every landscaper knows how to properly re-sand pavers. The most common mistakes are using the wrong type of sand (regular play sand instead of polymeric), overwatering during activation, and failing to compact the sand before activating. All of these lead to joint failure within months.
Before hiring anyone for paver maintenance, verify they hold an active CSLB license and ask specifically what brand of polymeric sand they use and how they control the activation water. If they cannot answer those questions confidently, move on. For a complete contractor vetting process, use our Contractor Vetting Playbook.
The INSTALL-IT-DIRECT Standard
Every paver project we build is backed by our written On-Time Completion Guarantee. We agree on a timeline before construction starts. If we miss the deadline due to delays on our end, we pay you a daily schedule credit. No other landscaping company in San Diego offers this. See our guarantee details.
We carry full workers’ compensation and general liability insurance that exceeds industry standards. We are fully licensed with the California CSLB (License #947643, C-27 and D-06 classifications), and we have completed over 6,000 projects across San Diego County since 2009.
Ready for a Weed-Free Patio?
Whether you need a professional cleaning and re-sanding or a complete paver upgrade, schedule a free consultation and we will walk your property and recommend the right solution.
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Frequently Asked Questions
We design, build, and maintain paver patios, driveways, pool decks, and walkways across San Diego County, including Rancho Santa Fe, Del Mar, La Jolla, Carmel Valley, Encinitas, Carlsbad, Poway, Escondido, El Cajon, Santee, Scripps Ranch, Oceanside, San Marcos, Chula Vista, Coronado, and the surrounding coastal and inland communities.