Before we get into how to get rid of grubs in your lawn or garden, we should first take a look at what a grub is and why they are destroying your lawn in the first place.

Grubs – also called white grubs, grub worms, or lawn grubs – are the larvae of scarab beetles, such as Japanese beetles and June bugs. The basic cycle consists of beetles laying eggs in late summer and fall, those eggs hatching into larvae that burrow into the soil and survive on organic matter (like roots) through winter and spring, and then the larvae entering the pupal stage and maturing into beetles to leave the soil in late June. Then, after dining on foliage for the summer, the new beetles lay another round of eggs, and the process starts over again.

Why Are Grubs Bad?

A large grub population can decimate a vegetable garden, flower bed or natural grass lawn, but most serious grub issues that homeowners deal with have to do with their lawns. While a small population (fewer than five grubs per square foot of soil) is generally not an issue and will not destroy your grass, a population of 10 or more grubs per square foot can cause significant damage.

The damage caused by grubs is largely due to their diet, which consists primarily of grass roots, as well as other organic matter in the soil. As they eat the roots of your grass, they destroy the root system, which means your grass will not get the water and soil nutrients it needs to stay healthy. This will lead to patches of grass that are brown, dead and easy to pull out of the ground.

A significant grub population can also lead to lawn, flowerbed, and garden destruction indirectly as birds, raccoons, and other grub-eating critters tear up your lawn or garden to get to the grubs.

How Do I Know if I Have a Grub Problem?

Most homeowners discover they have grubs in their flowerbeds or vegetable garden when they are digging the soil for spring planting or fall garden cleanup. For folks who find grubs in their lawns, most discover the issue while investigating oddly shaped, brown patches of grass in one or more areas of their lawn.

These patches are most often found in spring or in late-summer and early-fall, which are the seasons when grubs are most active. During the winter, grubs burrow deeper into the ground, and then move back to the top few inches of soil in the spring to eat and become pupae to emerge as beetles in early summer.

Alternatively, homeowners may discover their grub problem after they notice that racoons or birds are tearing up their lawn and that what they are uncovering are not run-of-the-mill earthworms.

In some cases, you may notice sections of your lawn that feel spongy. This can be an early sign of a grub infestation that may appear before brown patches develop.

If you suspect that you may have a grub problem in your lawn, the easiest way to investigate is to try to pull up the brown patches of lawn. If they easily lift or peel away from the soil, this means that the root system has been damaged, and you likely have grubs.

Since this area of your lawn is already damaged, go ahead and remove some of the patchy grass so that you can dig down into the soil. In the winter, the grubs will be deeper in the ground, but in the spring, late summer or fall, they will be in the top few inches. Dig up about one square foot of turf in a few areas to see how many grubs you have per square foot.

If your lawn is otherwise healthy, it should be able to sustain a population of nine or fewer grubs per square foot. If your lawn is not in optimal health, it can only sustain a population of five or fewer grubs per square foot. This means that if you have a population of five or fewer grubs, you do not need to treat it, but if you have population between six and nine per square foot, you will need to consider the overall health of your lawn when determining whether you need to treat it.

If you have visible damage and a population of 10 or more grubs per square foot, you will need to treat your lawn to avoid additional damage.

While most lawns can survive with a small population (fewer than nine per square foot), you may want to treat it anyways if animals are digging you your yard trying to get to the grubs.

Bonus Tip: Keep an eye on your neighbors’ lawns. If you do not think you have a grub problem but it looks like they might, you may want to take preventive measures to avoid their grub problem moving onto your property.

How to Get Rid of Grubs Naturally

If you decide to treat your garden beds or lawn for grubs, it is best to introduce the treatment to the soil in mid- to late-summer or early fall. During this time, the grubs will be newly hatched and will be near the surface and beginning to feed. During the winter, they burrow deeper into the soil, and during the spring they are in the pupal stage, and then move into the imago stage, which means most treatments will be far less effective.

Many beetles return to the same area to lay eggs each year so, if you have a large population, it may take a few years to get it under control through treatment.

It is often best to try natural treatments before moving up to pesticides that may introduce toxins into the groundwater or affect the health of your family, your pets, bees, or other local wildlife. So, let’s look at some home remedies for grubs and natural ways to get rid of grubs.

1. Encourage birds to hang out in your yard.

Birds love to dine on grubs, so if you do not mind birds digging around in your flowerbeds or lawn, invite more of them to hang out in your yard. You can attract birds with bird feeders, bird baths and bird houses. To learn more about attracting birds to your yard, read Learn the Secrets of Attracting Birds to Your Backyard.

If you dig up grubs, you can also scatter them on top of the ground to encourage birds to eat them. Just know that any that are not snatched up by hungry birds will burrow back into the soil.

2. Feed your chickens.

If you have backyard chickens, you have a ready-made, natural grub treatment that can be quite effective. Turn your chickens loose in your yard, and they will be more than happy to dig up grubs and eat them all day. Keep in mind that the process of digging for grubs is great for soil that needs to be worked but can destroy a flowerbed if left unchecked.

You can also dig up the grubs yourself and toss them in your coop to give your chickens a treat.

3. Limit irrigation.

White grubs require moisture to thrive, so one easy way to shrink the population is to avoid providing them with that moisture. This is not always possible, since they can be found in vegetable gardens and flowerbeds where we want to maintain their visual appeal or in lawns that require more water during the critical summer-fall period where grub treatments are most effective. However, if you have a grass lawn that can go dormant in the summer and recover once water is re-introduced, you could take this opportunity to kill some grubs while also conserving water and lowering your summer water bills.

4. Relocate them.

Grub relocation can be tricky, but if you have a spot in your yard where you do not mind them eating the roots of weeds or other plants, you can dig up your grubs and relocate them away from your lawn.

5. Treat with milky spore.

Milky spore is a bacterial disease that primarily affects white grubs that will become Japanese beetles. Japanese beetles are among the most common culprits when grub populations are found in Southern California lawns and gardens; however, it is difficult to identify which type of grubs you have, and milky spore is only going to help if yours happen to be Japanese beetles.

Even if you are not sure which type of grubs have invaded your lawn, you may want to use milky spore as a preventive treatment that will help if any Japanese beetles show up. You usually need to apply this treatment a couple of times a year for two to three years, but once you go through this process, it can continue to act as a biological control for grubs for 10 to 15 years.

Milky spore is an eco-friendly, natural, non-toxic option, which makes it a great place to start. If you choose to use milky spore, simply follow the instructions on the package. You may also want to purchase an inexpensive Milky Spore Lawn & Garden Dispenser to make it even easier to apply this powder to your lawn or garden beds.

6. Introduce beneficial nematodes.

Nematodes are tiny, parasitic worms that can eradicate all sorts of garden pests, including grubs. They are often used in conjunction with milky spore and offer an organic, safe way to get rid of grubs that will not harm your family or pets.

Because nematodes are living creatures, it is important to purchase them from a reputable retailer and to ensure that you are purchasing containers that are marked with a future expiration date. They are microscopic, so you cannot rely on your ability to see if they are alive once they arrive.

You will want to apply them to your lawn or garden soon after their arrival (or soon after you get them home, if purchasing locally). You will also want to avoid allowing the worms to be in direct sunlight, since even a short time in direct sunlight can render them sterile. To distribute them in your yard, you simply follow the directions on the package to mix the worms with water, and then use a watering can or Nematode Hose End Sprayer to distribute them over your grass or in your garden beds.

You will likely need to introduce a new batch of nematodes into the soil once or twice each year for a few years to establish the population.

7. Apply neem oil.

If eco-friendly, organic gardening is your thing, you probably already have neem oil in your garden shed. This natural pest repellent works wonders on keeping all sorts of garden pests at bay. If you spray neem oil on your lawn at night during egg-laying season, it can keep beetles from laying eggs in your soil, which makes this a great preventive measure. Azadirachtin, which is made from neem seeds, is also used as a natural grub killer, which can be sprayed on your lawn to both repel beetles and kill grubs.

8. Repel the beetles.

There are several natural pest repellents – like the above-mentioned neem oil – that can be used as a preventive treatment. Treating your lawn or garden with one of these repellents assists in keeping beetles away from your yard so that they will not lay eggs that will soon hatch into larvae.

If you are interested in making a homemade grub killer or repellent, you may already have most of the ingredients in your pantry. For example, one popular homemade grub treatment mixes dish soap, lemon juice, and mouthwash with water in a spray bottle that you can then spray on your lawn to repel beetles. Other options include mixing garlic and water or chili peppers and water to create a pest repellent spray.

While this trick can help keep beetles from laying eggs in your soil, it requires you to know when to spray it for maximum effect. Since beetles typically lay their eggs during the summer but it can vary depending on location and weather, you may find yourself treating your lawn repeatedly in hopes of holding the beetles at bay.

9. Make a homemade grub killer with borax.

Before you consider making a homemade grub killer using borax, it is important to note that borax contains boron, and too much boron will kill your grass. If you use a borax grub killer repeatedly on your lawn or in flowerbeds or garden beds, the boron will accumulate in the soil and nothing will grow. So, this option should be used sparingly, if at all.

If you choose to use borax, the simplest recipe is to add one tablespoon of borax with warm water in a spray bottle. Then, use the spray bottle to distribute the borax-water solution on areas where you have found grubs. You will need to repeat this treatment until you have eradicated the grub population, so remember the part about boron accumulating in the soil over time before you choose this option.

Other recipes for borax grub killers include mixing onion, peppers or garlic in the warm water with the borax.

10. Dethatch your lawn.

Leaving a good layer of thatch can be beneficial to your lawn in other ways, but if you are having pest issues and want to get rid of grubs naturally, dethatching is an important part of the process. A thick layer of thatch provides a welcome environment for laying eggs and offers shelter to grubs, so removing it will make your lawn a less-welcoming environment for beetles and grubs.

A thick layer of thatch will also prevent treatments from effectively penetrating the soil, so it is best to dethatch your lawn prior to applying milky spore, nematodes, or other natural solutions, as well as harsher pesticides.

11. Aerate your lawn.

Grubs live in the top few inches of soil in late summer and fall and return to the top few inches of soil to enter the pupal stage in spring. This means that aerating your lawn during these times can injure or kill grubs living near the surface of the soil.

12. Replace your lawn with artificial grass.

Artificial grass is not a natural product, but it is worth adding to this list because it is an effective option that requires no toxic pesticides or repeated treatments. Replacing your natural grass lawn with synthetic turf is a sure way to keep a grub population from taking hold in your lawn and destroying it. Plus, you can enjoy a lush, green lawn throughout the year that looks, feels and functions like natural grass without grub problems or the mowing, watering, weeding, aerating, edging, fertilizing and other tasks that are required to maintain a healthy, natural lawn.

How to Get Rid of Grubs in Your Lawn or Garden: Additional Resources

If getting rid of grubs naturally is not working or you simply want to start with stronger pesticides, it is important to understand the potential effects on groundwater, bees, other wildlife, your pets and your family.

To better understand how the use of grub control products can affect bees and other pollinators, we recommend reading Grub Control in Lawns: Neonicotinoids and Bees published by the Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment at University of Massachusetts at Amherst.

For best practices in effectively using pesticides that target grubs, we recommend reading How to Choose and When to Apply Grub Control Products to Your Lawn published by Michigan State University Extension. This article also includes a section on protecting bees and other pollinators when using potentially harmful pesticides.

The post How to Get Rid of Garden & Lawn Grubs Naturally (Guide) appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Of course, there are plenty of commercial herbicides that use toxic chemicals (some of which are organic compounds) for long-term weed eradication, but, while these products are generally rather effective, recent studies link one of the most popular, widely available weed killers to cancer. Others have been linked to kidney and liver damage, endocrine disruption, birth defects, and detrimental effects on wildlife and the environment.

If you have not already stopped using products labeled as potential or likely carcinogens, such as glyphosate and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (aka 2,4-D), it may be time to do a little more research on the possible health effects of these weed killers before spraying them around your family and pets. A quick online search for health effects of commercial herbicides will likely turn rather quickly into a search for how to kill weeds naturally.

The good news is that there are lots of natural and homemade weed killers that are both effective and non-toxic. So, if you are tired of pulling weeds, there are plenty of options you can try before turning to potentially dangerous chemicals.

When using natural weed control methods, it is important to remember that weeds are basically just plants that we find undesirable. Natural herbicides kill plants indiscriminately, which means they will kill desirable plants right along with unwanted weeds. Therefore, it is necessary to apply these products with care to kill the weeds you do not want without damaging the plants and flowers you love.

1. Use the hands-on approach: Pull weeds before they go to seed.

Most gardeners search for natural ways to kill weeds specifically because they do not want to pull them. However, this old-fashioned weed-removal method is a tried-and-true way to get a weed-free yard. You should not have to pull weeds on a regular basis, since you are going to use some of these other natural weed control options, but sometimes this is the best way to get rid of weeds fast. Most importantly, you need to get rid of weeds that are starting to go to seed. When weeds go to seed, they produce hundreds of seeds and expand their lifespan significantly.

Once your current weeds go to seed, those seeds are going to scatter throughout your yard and make weed removal much more difficult. So, whether you pull them or kill them by other means, be sure to get rid of your weeds before they go to seed.

What to do: Grabbing many weeds at once often results in you only pulling out half of the weed — which will allow it to continue to grow. Instead, pull each weed individually from the root. This will completely eradicate the weed.

2. Bring out the blow torch.

Weed torches are actually a thing, and you can even purchase them online. But, before you get too excited, it is important to note that these backyard blow torches should not actually be used to burn weeds, since any vegetation dry enough to burn is probably not safe to burn. Instead, use your propane weed torch to wilt your weeds into submission.

Obviously, you need to keep open flames far from desired plants, trees, your firewood storage area, anywhere with dry vegetation, your house, other structures, and anything flammable. Because of this, it is going to be best for most folks to try other natural weed control methods before turning to a blow torch.

What to do: Slowly apply the torch to the root of the weed so any moisture within the weed will evaporate. Without any moisture to sustain it, the weed will die.

3. Mow them down.

Mowing can be an effective method when determining how to kill weeds on a lawn. Mowing your weeds will remove their flowering bits, which is a temporary fix to keep your weeds from going to seed. This method is most effective for weeds growing in natural grass lawns and, again, it is only temporary. You will still need to employ other natural weed killers to eradicate the problem, but this quick fix will at least keep the weeds from going to seed and those seeds spreading to create an even bigger issue.

What to do: Set your lawn mower to around two inches and mow the area with weeds. Afterward, you can pull the remaining roots from the ground to completely eradicate them. 

4. Dowse them with boiling water.

As far as DIY weed killers go, boiling water is certainly one of the most straightforward methods. This natural weed killer is practically free, and you definitely already have it on hand. All you need is a stove, a pot, and some tap water. Or, better yet, if you happen to have a stovetop tea kettle or an electric kettle, this process will be even easier.

What to do:  Pour the boiling water directly on unwanted weeds. You may have to do this more than once if you have weeds with deep tap roots, but it will eventually kill them off. Be sure to avoid pouring boiling water on desired plants, since this is an indiscriminate killer.

5. Use a homemade vinegar weed killer.

Vinegar is one of the best-known natural weed killers and has been used for this purpose for just about as long as people have been trying to rid their yards of weeds.

When determining how to kill weeds with vinegar, it’s important to do some homework ahead of time. You will be best served by picking up vinegar with 20% acetic acid, which you can purchase online or at your local garden center. The stuff you buy at the grocery store has only 5% acetic acid and is great for cleaning and all sorts of household tasks, but it will not kill weeds as effectively as vinegar with 20% acetic acid.

What to do: Put the vinegar in a garden sprayer or spray bottle and spray it directly on the leaves of unwanted plants. This is another indiscriminate killer, so you will need to make sure you do not accidentally spray any on desired plants. When using vinegar to kill weeds, you will likely need to repeat the treatment two or three times to get the job done.

6. Stop germination with cornmeal.

If you enjoy spending time in the kitchen, you probably already have cornmeal on hand. This means that you can stop weed growth in your yard with a natural weed killer right from your pantry.

Cornmeal stops weed growth by inhibiting germination. Since cornmeal keeps all seeds from germinating, it is important that you use this weed control method only in areas where you are not going to try to grow desired plants from seeds. Cornmeal will not affect established plants, so you can use it on bare ground to keep weed seeds from germinating, or you can use it in flowerbeds or vegetable gardens that have established plants. Just avoid using the cornmeal method in areas where you plan on planting seeds.

What to do: Distribute the cornmeal evenly throughout the area where you want to kill weeds. Then, lightly sprinkle some water on the ground to activate the oils responsible for killing weeds. After 5-6 weeks, reapply the cornmeal until the weeds are dead.

7. Brush baking soda into cracks.

If your main issue is weeds growing through cracks in your walkways, patio, or driveway, you may have the solution in your kitchen right now. Baking soda is another effective solution for killing weeds in cracks.

What to do: Grab a box of baking soda and sprinkle it along cracks where weeds grow. Then, use a broom or deck brush to push it into the cracks. You will need to repeat this process after it rains or if you rinse down your hardscapes since that will dilute the baking soda.

8. Sprinkle the weeds and soil with salt.

Table salt is an effective, inexpensive, natural weed killer that will dehydrate unwanted plants and render the soil barren well into the future. That is the thing about salt: It is incredibly effective at killing weeds, but it will also kill any other plants in the area, and nothing will grow in that soil for at least several months. On a small scale, you can use a minimal amount of salt to kill weeds, and then irrigate the area regularly to dilute the salt so that you will, one day, be able to plant there again. 

However, it is safest to only use this method in areas where you have no future plans for growing anything at all. For example, driveway cracks or walkways made of gravel or wood chips are good candidates for salt-based weed control. While salt is non-toxic to humans and animals, you will need to take a few precautions with this one. 

First, you will need to be careful when applying it to hardscapes and be sure to get it only in the cracks, since salt can corrode concrete and concrete pavers. Secondly, it is imperative that you do not use salt in areas where runoff could carry it to flowerbeds, a natural grass lawn, or other areas where you want to keep the soil healthy.

What to do: Salt is most effective and less dangerous as a herbicide when mixed with water from the start. Create a 1:2 mixture of salt and water in a spray bottle and spray the weed leaves. This will accomplish your goal of killing the weeds while protecting the desirable plants around them. 

8. Bring on the borax.

A simple borax-water mixture is an inexpensive, homemade weed killer that takes seconds to mix and kills weeds quickly. You only need about five ounces of borax per gallon of water, so if you have a two-gallon sprayer, you would mix in about 10 ounces of borax. 

What to do: Mix the borax and water until dissolved. Then, spray the mixture on areas where weeds are growing to kill weeds quickly. If you are treating smaller areas with a spray bottle, you will only need about an ounce to one-and-a-half ounces of borax per quart of water. Be sure to wear gloves and other protective gear to keep the solution off your skin and out of your eyes. This is another one where you will need to be careful to only spray the weeds you want to kill while avoiding desirable plants or spraying too much borax onto the soil.

9. Using vodka in homemade weed killer.

If you happen to have some extra vodka in your liquor cabinet, you can mix one ounce of vodka with about two cups of water in a spray bottle. Add a couple of drops of natural dish soap to the mix, shake well, and you have a simple, inexpensive home remedy for weeds. Be sure to spray your vodka weed killer directly on the leaves of the weeds in the middle of the day. Since the vodka kills your weeds by making them more vulnerable to dehydration, sun is an essential part of the equation. 

What to do: On a sunny day, spray your weeds around noon or in the early afternoon with your vodka concoction, and watch them wither away.

10. Mix vinegar weed killer with dish soap and salt.

If you do not have any extra vodka lying around, or you simply do not want to part with it, you can also whip up a vinegar weed killer using vinegar, dish soap, and salt. 

What to do: You have two options here: You can fill your spray bottle with vinegar and add a few drops of natural dish soap and a pinch of salt, or you can fill your spray bottle with vinegar, add the dish soap and skip the salt. Which one you choose really just depends on your future plans for the area of your yard that is currently covered in weeds. Either of these homemade herbicides will kill the weeds, but if you choose the salt option, it will also most likely make the soil unable to grow desirable plants in that area for at least a few months.

11. Buy an organic herbicide.

If you are not up for making your own homemade weed killer or think that commercial solutions may be stronger or better, you can always purchase an organic herbicide at your local garden center or home improvement store. These natural herbicides often contain acetic acid, citric acid, or oils, such as clove oil, orange oil, or cinnamon oil. 

Much like homemade weed control options, store-bought organic and natural herbicides are non-selective, so they will kill both desirable and undesirable plants. This means that you need to be careful where you are spraying if you choose this option.

What to do: Spray the herbicide generously on weeds while avoiding any plants in your garden.

12. Crowd them out.

Ground covers and close plantings compete with weeds for water, light, and nutrients. If weeds are growing in an area where you do not plan on planting anything else, you can even plant a thug, which is a plant that will happily steal all of the light, nutrients, and water from any plants around them – desirable or not – and take over the entire area. Thugs easily crowd out other plants and will readily overpower any weeds that dare grow near them.

What to do: Plant your thugs or ground covers around the weeds but away from any desirable plants. Then, the thugs will quickly crowd out the weeds. 

13. Rent goats for weed control.

Goats are not the ideal solution for every weed situation, but they are a great choice for hillsides, rocky areas, places that are difficult for humans to reach, and large areas that do not have desirable plants. Goats will eat just about anything in their path, so this is not an option for clearing the weeds in your vegetable garden or around your prized petunias, but they are a viable option for spots where you need some serious weed abatement. 

What to do: You do not need to purchase goats to handle your weed situation; you may have a neighbor who will let you borrow some, or you can rent them from companies or goat farmers who provide goats to clients specifically for this purpose. Once you have the goats, they will happily eat away your weeds. 

14. Install landscaping fabric around plants and under hardscapes.

If you are planning to install an artificial grass lawn, paving stone patio, gravel walkway, or brick driveway, it is always a good idea to include weed-blocking landscaping fabric in the installation process. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and adding this one step to hardscape installations can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds later on.

You can also prevent weeds in established flowerbeds and borders by installing landscaping fabric around plants under wood chips or gravel.

15. Protect your soil and block the sunlight with mulch.

Applying a thick layer of mulch around your desirable plants or on larger patches of bare dirt provides two-part weed control that does not require chemical-laden herbicides or hours of pulling weeds. First, the mulch provides a barrier that will help keep weed seeds from reaching the soil to germinate. Secondly, it will block sunlight from those seeds that do reach the soil. It is important that you know the difference between mulch and compost if you choose this method of natural weed control, since compost will provide your weed seeds with even more nutrients and encourage their growth.

16. Crowd them out.

Use ground covers and close plantings to compete with weeds for water, light and nutrients to crowd out undesirable plants. If it is an area where you do not plan on planting anything else, you can even plant a thug, which is a plant that will happily steal all of the light, nutrients and water from any plants around them – desirable or not – and take over the entire area. Thugs easily crowd out other plants and will readily overpower any weeds that dare grow near them.

17. Rent goats for weed control.

Goats are not the ideal solution for every weed situation, but they are a great choice for hillsides, rocky areas, places that are difficult for humans to reach, and large areas that do not have desirable plants. Goats will eat just about anything in their path, so this is not an option for clearing the weeds in your vegetable garden or around your prized petunias, but they are a viable option for spots where you need some serious weed abatement. You do not need to purchase goats to handle your weed situation; you may have a neighbor who will let you borrow some, or you can rent them from companies or goat farmers who provide goats to clients specifically for this purpose.

Weed Prevention Tips

The best way to deal with weeds is by not having to deal with them at all. Here are a few different ways you can prevent weeds from invading your garden in the first place. 

14. Recycle old newspapers in your garden.

One way to kill weeds naturally is to deprive them of the sunlight they need to grow. If you suspect that there are weed seeds in your flowerbeds or vegetable garden, you can stop them in their tracks by cutting off their exposure to sunlight. 

What to do: Moisten the ground and apply several pages of the daily news to block the sunlight from reaching the soil. This will inhibit their growth and provide weed control until the paper biodegrades and adds carbon matter to your soil.  Of course, this is not the most attractive option, but you can cover the newspaper with mulch to hide the paper and add additional nutrients to your soil as it breaks down.

15. Install landscaping fabric.

If you are planning to install an artificial grass lawn, paving stone patio, gravel walkway, or brick driveway, it is always a good idea to include weed-blocking landscaping fabric in the installation process. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and adding this one step to hardscape installations can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend pulling weeds later on.

What to do: Install your landscape fabric in your garden area to prevent any weed growth. You can also prevent weeds in established flowerbeds and borders by installing landscaping fabric around plants and under wood chips or gravel.

16. Seal cracks in pavement.

If you are mostly concerned about weeds growing up through seams or cracks in concrete driveways, walkways, patios, or sidewalks, you may be able to eradicate your weed problem by simply filling in those cracks. 

What to do: Apply the crack filler into the seams and cracks with a caulking gun or squeezable bottle. This will smother tiny weeds that are just beginning to grow and help prevent future weeds from making their way up through the cracks. If you have existing weeds, you will need to kill and remove them before applying the cement crack filler.

17. Block the sunlight with mulch.

Applying a thick layer of mulch around your desirable plants or on larger patches of bare dirt provides two-part weed control that does not require chemical-laden herbicides or hours of pulling weeds. 

First, the mulch provides a barrier that will help keep weed seeds from reaching the soil to germinate. Secondly, it will block sunlight from those seeds that do reach the soil. It is important that you know the difference between mulch and compost if you choose this method of natural weed control, since compost will provide your weed seeds with even more nutrients and encourage their growth.

What to do: Add a barrier of mulch around the desired plants in your garden to block out weeds from sunlight. 

Benefits of Homemade Weed Killer

Natural herbicides are generally preferred since they’re less harmful to the environment. Beyond that, there are some other considerations that make homemade weed killers a better option than chemicals. Here are three great reasons to opt for a natural herbicide. 

Environmentally Friendly 

Since pesticides are meant to be toxic to the organism they’re designed to kill, they can damage the entire ecosystem around the weed as well. While not all pesticides are equally harmful, homemade alternatives are a safer option for protecting the environment. 

While glyphosate, the major chemical in Roundup, is known to be a relatively harmless chemical in comparison to others, opting for a natural herbicide can quell concerns about applying toxic chemicals to the soil. 

Harmless to Animals  

Chemical weed killers harm animals that consume them. Whether it’s a pet, insect, or other garden creature, these toxic chemicals can be very dangerous, and sometimes deadly, for animals to consume.  

When it comes to protecting pets and other animals, vinegar, salt, and boiling water are all safer alternatives to glyphosate. Therefore, if your dog typically takes strolls through your lawn, garden, or driveway, you won’t have to worry about it licking up harmful chemicals. 

Readily Available 

The best thing about homemade weed killers is that they’re readily available in your kitchen. Salt, cornstarch, vinegar, and boiling water are all effective practices for killing weeds — and you don’t even have to leave your home to get them. 

Since natural herbicides are cheap and readily available, there’s no reason to opt for chemicals. Using the elements at your fingertips is a foolproof way to kill nagging weeds and protect the environment and wildlife.

Frequently Asked Questions 

Still have questions about getting pesky weeds out of your garden? We’ve got you covered. Here are some common questions and answers about killing and preventing weeds. 

Is it better to pull or spray weeds? 

For larger infestations, spraying weeds will be more effective than pulling each individually. When pulling weeds, you’ll want to pull them one by one to ensure you pull the root. So if you’re dealing with a smaller patch of weeds, pulling is a better bet — as sprayed weeds will have to be pulled out of the ground later on anyways. 

Should you spray for weeds before or after mowing?

Weed killers are most effective when weeds have lots of leaves, so it’s best not to mow during the five or so days before you spray the area. Weeds absorb pesticides through their leaves before they target the root. 

Additionally, it’s best to wait around 2 days after spraying before you mow. This gives the leaves time to absorb the pesticide. 

What will kill a large area of weeds?

There are a few solutions for killing large areas of weeds. Spraying the area with pesticides should get the job done as long as you avoid desirable plants. Other effective solutions include using a blow torch, spreading newspapers over the area, and spreading a natural preventative like cornmeal over the infested area. 

Does bleach kill weeds?

Bleach does kill weeds; however, it can be very damaging to the soil if overused. Bleach can do lasting damage to the quality of your soil and can harm pets and garden critters. As a result, it’s best to opt for another solution. 

Protect Your Garden From Weeds 

Now that you know how to kill and prevent weeds, you can move forward to creating the garden and outside areas you’ve always wanted. 

For driveways especially, a foolproof way of preventing weeds is using a professional paving service to fill unruly cracks in pavements that oftentimes become home to weeds. Check out our paving services to learn more about our process and prices.

The post How to Kill and Prevent Weeds: 17 Natural Solutions appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

We have the ability to choose our home, furnishings and which renovations to implement, but we can’t wave a magic wand around the yard to change the soil type.

In San Diego and other parts of Southern California, our soils are composed primarily of dense clay that is back-breaking to dig through whether it’s wet or dry.

By understanding the strengths and weaknesses of clay soil and by landscaping with native plants that love it, you can garden efficiently and cultivate a show-stopping yard.

 How to Identify Clay Soil

Soil that consists of 50% or more clay particles is referred to as heavy clay soil. Clay particles are the tiniest of soil particles with silt intermediate in size and sand the largest. Interestingly enough, clay particles are held together tightly by electrochemical forces which is why it’s found in dense layers.

If you live in San Diego, it’s probably safe to assume there is clay soil in your garden, however, confirm any suspicion by performing some tests.

Check color and consistency –

Clay soil tens to be tinted red or orange and sticks to shoes if stepped on when wet.

Observe water – 

Do you see puddling or water run-off in the yard after a rain?

Clay soil absorbs water very slowly and retains it well, causing excess to wash away. Think about the texture of modeling clay and what might happen if you were to dump water on top of it. The majority of water runs off, right? Clay soil behaves in the same manner.

Buy a soil test –

Head to your local nursery or gardening center to purchase a soil test kit. Microclimates exist in every yard so be sure to test multiple spots in order to avoid an erroneous result. Note that if the kit needs to be sent away, it could take a long time to receive results depending on how busy the lab is.

Perform a hand test –

It might just be easier to test the soil yourself with the following method.

Roll up a ball of soil (add moisture, if necessary) to roughly the size of a ping pong ball and slowly flatten it into a ribbon. If your ribbon measures less than 1 inch long before breaking, you have loam or silt. If your ribbon measures 1 to 2 inches long before breaking, you have clay loam. If your ribbon measures more than two inches long before breaking, you have clay.

UC Davis has prepared an excellent video that not only demonstrates the hand test, but will tell you more than you probably need to know about the soil in your yard.

Let the kids test it –

Just for fun, let the kids fill a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid about 1/3 full with backyard soil. Fill the rest of the jar with water, leaving a small amount of air between the lid and the water. Place the lid on and have the kids shake it as much as they like. The soil should separate into layers with sand on the bottom, silt in the middle and clay on top.

Why Clay Soil Needs TLC

The small particle size of clay soil means it becomes easily compacted and disallows air circulation as well as good drainage.

Trees, such as our native Torrey Pine, and larger shrubs with strong roots can handle clay soil because their roots are able to penetrate through the dirt, unlike weaker plants such as annuals, perennials and vegetables.

Do you plant spring bulbs in the fall? In clay soil, these bulbs are likely to rot during the winter as clay retains so much water and is slow to warm in the spring.

Because of its density and poor drainage, clay soil retains important nutrients that promote healthy plant growth, however, this means in coastal Southern California it also retains sea salt which is bad, because salt changes the soil’s pH. Also, be careful not to over-fertilize plants as clay soil is already nutrient dense. Unabsorbed fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it washes off unnecessarily into gutters and then into the ocean, exposing sea life to chemicals.

 How To Amend Clay Soil

The best thing do to is amend an entire area at once versus just digging a hole and amending the soil around the new plant. The reason is because if the plant grows healthy roots, they will lock themselves into the area of amended soil only and become unable to grow into the denser clay surrounding the hole. As a result, the root will wind around the amended space only becoming a root-bound, weaker plant.

Instead, till soil approximately 8 inches down by mixing in grass clippings or compost. Working with clay soil takes effort so skip the gym for the day and use gardening as exercise. Add a thin layer of more organic matter to the top of the best once or twice a year.

Occasionally test the pH of the soil bed and add amendments depending on the readings to adjust acidity and alkalinity. Amendments can include builder’s sand, gypsum, composted manure, compost or other coarse organic material and they will add in beneficial microbes while providing for better drainage.

Also, some nurseries sell liquid products, like Liquid Gypsum, to help break up clay soil.

How to Water Plants in Clay Soil

Over-watering a yard with clay soil is a mistake that many homeowners and gardeners make as the very nature of clay suggests less frequent watering.

Rather than running the irrigation daily for short periods of time, the most efficient way to water a garden with clay soil is to water less frequently but deeply, for example, watering twice a day (spaced a few hours apart) just 1-2 times per week.

Daily light watering encourages shallow roots because the water stays toward the surface, resulting in a less drought-tolerant plant. If you notice the top layer of soil is perpetually wet, decrease irrigation in the area.

It’s ok to thoroughly water newly-planted flowers to settle them into the soil.

Use Mulch

A layer of mulch over any soil will prohibit weeds from spreading throughout the yard as it prevents seeds from landing on the soil and germinating.

Mulch slows water run-off which will help keep walkways, patios and driveways clear of clay mud during the rainy season and spare it from  being tracked into your house.

10 California Native Plants and Trees for Clay Soil

The California Native Plant Society is a non-profit resource that maintains a database of native plants, shrubs, vines and trees that will do well in clay soil.

Here are a few suggestions:

1. California Aster (Aster chilensis):

This common aster is a perennial herb that was thought to have originated in Chile, hence the name, and does not grow much taller than a few feet.

2.  Lemonade Berry (Rhus integrifolia): 

Lemonade berry is a shrub that is found in coastal canyons that can grow from 3-26 feet tall with tiny clustered flowers that bloom in the spring.

3. California Coneflower (Rudbeckia Californica): 

With a sunflower-like head, this branchless member of the aster family grows well in coastal Southern California, but can be found in mountain areas and near streams.

4. Yarrow (Achillea millefoliuma): 

This flowering herb was used to stop bleeding from wounds many years ago and produces stems up to 3 feet tall.

5. Coyote Bush (Baccharis pilularis):

Drought-tolerant and deer-proof, this native plant tolerates poor soil conditions and generally grows shorter than 10 feet tall.

6. Wild lilac (Ceanothus):

Ceanothus ranges from tall to short but all grow well in clay soil and are excellent for Southern California hillsides as their deep, strong roots help prevent erosion.  The exact time of year depends on the species of ceanothus but more bloom with blue or white flowers in the late winter and early spring.

7. Common verbena (Verbena lasiostachys): 

A perennial herb native to the Western United States, butterflies love this plant and beware that it spreads quickly. It’s a popular choice for hillsides.

8. Big Leaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum): 

9. California Fan Palm (Washingtonia filifera): 

10. Western azalea (Rhododendron occidentale):

Avoid headaches later by cleaning clay soil off of shoes and tools right away as its sticky nature leads to caked-on mess if left to dry.

If you happen to be in one of Southern California’s new housing developments, you may need to seek some professional help if topsoil in your garden was bulldozed during grading of the new home sites, leaving a tough layer of clay exposed. If you want to leave it up to the professionals, we provide landscaping services throughout Southern California, from Carlsbad to San Diego and Lakeside.

Feeling crafty? Some homeowners report success with making DIY bricks by filling wooden molds with clay soil and drying them in the sun.

Just remember that clay soil takes work, but the effort is worth a healthy garden that’s sure to be the envy of the neighborhood.

Photo credits (in order of apperance): clay in hand, Flickr/USDAgov; muddy shoes, Flickr/ARG_Flickr; aster, Flickr/jkirkhart35; lemonade berry, Flickr/briweldon; coneflower Flickr/jkirkhart35; yarrow, Flickr/gmayfield10; coyote bush, Flickr/briweldon; wild lilac, Flickr/Neilhooting; verbena, Flickr/Don M. Davis; oak, Flickr/briweldon; palm, Flickr/Ettore Balocchi; Man digging, Flickr/USDAgov

The post Clay Soil Guide: How to Garden in Southern California Clay Soil appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

However, you can select trees, plants and lawn options that reduce your exposure to pollen and can allow you to enjoy outdoor living without worsening your allergy or asthma symptoms.

Having an allergen-free garden does not have to mean forgoing flowers or limiting the size of your lawn, but it does mean that you need to choose flowering plants carefully and consider allergy-friendly lawn alternatives that can help you more fully enjoy your outdoor living spaces.

Try these allergy-free landscaping tips to create a garden where you, your family and your guests can enjoy spending time outdoors without irritating your allergies.

Allergy-Free Gardening Tips: Allergen-Free Landscaping Trees

Trees provide shade, can lower your utility bills, add height to your garden and just look nice, which is why most homeowners want to add some type of trees to their landscape design.

There are two types of trees used in landscaping of which you should be aware if you or a family member has allergies or asthma: monoecious trees and dioecious trees.

Monoecious trees are species that have both male and female parts in a single tree.

Dioecious trees are species where a single tree is either male or female.

Spruce, pine, birch and oak trees are examples of monoecious trees that are both male and female and, therefore, produce pollen.

Allergy and asthma sufferers pretty much just need to avoid using these species in their yards at all, since all of them produce pollen that can make symptoms worse.

If you choose dioecious trees for your landscape design, you can select female trees to limit your exposure to pollen.

The problem with landscaping with trees is that most of the dioecious trees you find at your local nursery are going to be male, and male trees produce allergy-inducing pollen.

Here’s the deal: Homeowners want lovely trees in their yard, but they do not want the stuff the trees drop, such as seeds or fruits, which then have to be raked up on a regular basis.

Female trees are the fruit and seed bearers, which leads to more cleanup and more ongoing yard maintenance.

Male trees do not produce nearly as much debris that will later need to be cleaned up, but they do produce plenty of pollen.

Since most people prefer less yard maintenance over less pollen, landscaping trends have led to an increased use of male trees.

And since nurseries tend to carry what the majority of their customers want to buy, most of the dioecious trees you find at garden centers are male.

This is all well and good for most homeowners, but if you have an allergy or asthma sufferer in the house, you should consider removing pollen-producing trees from your yard and replacing them with trees that are friendlier to folks who have allergies.

To limit exposure to tree pollen, try planting one or more of these landscaping trees in your yard:

1. Female poplar trees
2. Female red maple trees
3. Female silver maple trees
4. Female mulberry trees
5. Female ash trees
6. Female red cedar trees (these are often called juniper trees)

While it might be a bit more difficult to find female dioecious trees for your landscaping needs, it is well worth the effort.

Your best bet is talking to your local garden center about placing a special order.

If you have well-established male trees in your yard that you would like to keep, you may be able to lower their pollen production by grafting the trees with wood from females of the same species.

You can look online for grafting tips or hire a professional gardener with tree grafting experience to do it for you.

Allergy-Free Gardening Tips: Weed Reduction

Weeds are annoying to any homeowner, but those who have pollen-irritated allergies or someone with asthma in their family find weeds particularly troubling.

In most parts of the country, weed pollen is at its worst during the late summer and early fall, but Southern California’s fantastic climate for growing plants of all sorts makes weeds a year-round issue for folks with respiratory ailments made worse by weed pollen.

Ragweed, Russian thistle, sagebrush, dandelions and Lamb’s Quarters are some of the worst, but there is a wide variety of common weeds that can increase symptoms in folks with asthma or pollen allergies.

You may not be able to ensure a completely weed-free garden, but you can reduce weed growth with these weed-free landscaping tips:

1. Cover areas of bare dirt between plants and trees with ground covers like mulch or gravel to limit weed growth.

2. Install a weed barrier beneath ground covers and around plants and trees.

3. In areas where you do not want any vegetation to grow, you can spray distilled white vinegar to kill weeds and limit regrowth.

4. Fill cracks between concrete slabs, bricks or paving stones with sand or small gravel.

5. Install weed-free artificial grass instead of a natural grass lawn where weeds often thrive.

6. If you have a natural grass lawn, keep it fertilized and healthy to try to limit weed growth.

7. If you have natural grass in your landscaping, make sure to mow it regularly to help keep weeds from flowering and producing pollen.

8. Pull weeds as soon as they appear to avoid allowing them to mature enough to produce pollen.

9. Keep your yard clear of piles of leaves, brush and other areas where weeds can flourish.

Allergen-Free Gardening Tips: Go Easy on Grasses

Grasses can be great for landscaping.

Including a lawn in your landscaping design provides a place for kids and pets to play, teenagers to sunbathe and adults to have an impromptu picnic right in their backyard.

Grasses of the ornamental sort can provide texture and color to your backyard or front yard landscaping and are also a popular choice.

The problem with natural lawns and many ornamental grasses is that they can significantly worsen symptoms for folks with asthma or pollen allergies.

They also provide a great spot for weeds to flourish, which leads to a higher pollen count in your yard and even more problems.

Grass allergies are more common than many people think, but it is amazing how many allergy sufferers still insist on having natural grass in their yard that they cannot even enjoy.

Many homeowners think a lawn is a necessary part of the package when designing their landscape, but the popularity of natural grass is shrinking as more and more people become aware of its many cons, such as its excessive water needs, the need for hours of ongoing maintenance every month, how it provides a perfect place for weeds to thrive, the potential for bacterial buildup and just how difficult it is to keep a natural lawn looking green and inviting.

However, even knowing all of this, many people feel that they must have a lawn area for their kids to play on, their pets to use as a restroom or their neighbors to admire.

Fortunately, there is a simple solution that can meet everyone’s needs: artificial turf.

Synthetic grass has come a long way over the last couple of decades, and today’s options provide a lush, welcoming lawn for all to enjoy.

In fact, the high-quality manufactured lawns being installed at residential and commercial properties in all areas of the country have such a realistic look and feel that you have probably seen them many times and had no idea they were not real grass.

For those who suffer from grass allergies, faux grass is a dream come true.

Installing a synthetic turf lawn means no more worries about weeds creeping up unnoticed, and having the chance to run, play, roll around or lie on your lawn without worsening your allergy symptoms.

Having an artificial lawn also means never having to mow, weed, water, aerate, fertilize or edge your lawn, which can save you lots of time and money well into the future.

If you have dogs, fake grass also provides a perfect restroom area that is easy to clean and will not get the brown spots that dog owners must live with when they have natural grass in their yards.

If you have a natural lawn and do not want to replace it with allergy-friendly artificial turf, make sure you keep it mowed and fertilized regularly to try to limit allergy-irritating pollen.

Allergy-Free Landscaping Tips: Picking the Right Plants

We all want a visually appealing garden for outdoor living and entertaining guests.

This often includes flowering plants that add texture, color and fragrance that make outdoor areas more inviting.

The problem with flowering plants is that they produce pollen, which is an issue for folks who suffer from pollen allergies or asthma.

This does not mean that you have to have a flower-free garden, but it does mean that you should make picking the right plants a priority.

While all flowering plants produce pollen, not all of them trigger pollen allergy symptoms in most people.

The problematic pollen is generally the type that is transported by the wind, such as that of dandelions.

Plants with colorful blooms that attract insects to carry the pollen generally do not have the same negative effect on allergy sufferers.

This means that most people actually can have vibrant colors and beautiful flowers in their gardens, as long as they choose plants that are pollinated by insects.

Here are 10 insect-pollinated plants that generally do not cause problems for those who suffer from pollen allergies:

1. Roses
2. Hydrangeas
3. Shasta daisies
4. Salvia
5. Lavender
6. Rosemary
7. Hostas
8. Veronica
9. Yarrow
10. Russian sage

In general, you want to look for plants that produce bright, vibrant blooms that attract insects, and avoid less-showy plants that rely on the wind to spread their pollen.

General Gardening Tips for Allergy and Asthma Sufferers

If is difficult to avoid pollen completely when designing a beautiful garden – particularly if you have existing plants with which you do not want to part – but you can still reduce pollen and allergy symptoms with mindful gardening practices.

Here are 11 general gardening and everyday living tips for those who suffer from pollen allergies:

1. Always wear long sleeves, long pants, gloves and sunglasses when gardening.

2. Remove your gardening gear and place it directly in the laundry basket to avoid spreading pollen throughout your home.

3. Uphold a no-shoes rule in your home, since the bottom of your shoes can track in pollen, pollutants and other allergens from your yard.

4. Keep your hedges, bushes, shrubs and plants properly pruned to reduce pollen production.

5. Keep pollen-producing plants and trees away from windows, doors and walkways to limit your contact with them.

6. If it is in your budget, hire a professional landscaping company to mow natural grass and care for pollen-producing landscaping features to avoid exposure to irritants.

7. Stay informed about the pollen index and forecast in your area, and avoid long periods of time outdoors when the pollen count is high.

8. Pollen is usually at its highest in the morning, so schedule your gardening tasks for later in the day.

9. Drying your clothes on a clothesline may be better for the environment and can lower utility bills, but wind-blown pollen can collect on your clothes when lined dried, so you are likely better off using a clothes dryer.

10. Keep your doors and windows closed on windy days to avoid pollen entering your home.

11. Include attractive hardscape options in your landscaping design, such as paving stone patios or walkways, to add beauty to your yard without allergen-producing plants or grasses.

Photo Credits (in order of appearance): morgueFile, chelle; morgueFile, krosseel; morgueFile, talldude07; morgueFile, EmmiP; morgueFile, chamomile.

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To create the first impression you want people to have and increase your home’s curb appeal, consider these 14 front yard landscaping ideas.

How Do I Style My Front Yard for Landscaping? 

Your front yard is an opportunity to welcome people into a warm, inviting space. Curating the outdoor space from the curb to your front door creates curb appeal, which enhances visual appeal and increases property value. Good landscaping design complements your home’s architectural style, size, and building materials while showing off your style. 

Easy & Low-Budget Front Yard Landscaping Ideas 

Front yard landscaping can be costly, but there are budget-friendly DIY options that will add beauty to your yard. 

1. Try gravel

Gravel is an affordable ground cover that requires no water and helps inhibit weed growth, allowing rainwater to filter through the soil. This low-maintenance hardscape comes in various sizes and colors, so finding an option that fits your landscaping is easy. Using gravel is a great way to cover bare earth, create an inexpensive guest parking area, or increase home security by placing it so you can hear people or wildlife approaching your home.

2. Use mulch

Like gravel, mulch is an affordable ground cover that inhibits weed growth, quickly and easily covers bare earth, and does not require water. One of the main reasons you might choose mulch over gravel is that mulch offers a softer, warmer look. It depends on how you plan to use the area and what your overall goals are for your front-of-house landscaping.

3. Add a seating area

Your backyard is not the only spot for an outdoor living area to entertain friends or have breakfast with your family. If you have the space, add a seating area to your front porch to wave to neighbors while enjoying your morning coffee or greet your guests when they arrive. 

Taking Your Front Yard Landscaping to the Next Level 

If you’re a homeowner looking to invest in a more significant change, consider these mid-tier design ideas to increase your home’s curb appeal.

4. Grow a food garden

Vegetable gardens are usually part of the backyard landscaping but consider incorporating food garden design in your front yard. If you are concerned about keeping a front yard garden looking tidy, choose plants that look more ornamental, such as lettuces or herbs.

5. Plant fruit trees

Consider planting fruit trees in your front yard. Fruit trees are a great way to add shade, color, and visual interest while also growing fruits for your family and friends.

6. Plant an island flower bed

Island flower beds serve a variety of purposes. First and foremost, they are perfect for adding a pop of color, particularly if your yard is mostly one color, like a green lawn or a gravel driveway. 

If you have a no- or low-water landscape for water conservation but would like to give your yard a bit of life and a softer texture among hardscapes, an island flower bed is a great way to create just a small area that requires regular watering. Check out our article with 30 flower bed ideas for more ways to incorporate flower beds into landscaping.

7. Plant a rose garden

There is nothing quite like a rose garden to brighten your home’s exterior. Monochromatic, dichromatic, or as colorful as a rainbow, a garden bed of roses is a great way to add height, texture, and color to your landscape design.

8. Plant native plants on or near your curb

The sidewalk in front of your house is most likely a right-of-way easement. The narrow strip of land between the sidewalk and street is probably a utility easement you cannot block and need to keep for utility company access. 

This does not mean you should neglect these areas when landscaping your front yard. Curbside easements are a great spot to plant native plants, a cutting garden, or pollinators. Consider drought-tolerant ground cover, succulents, gravel, mulch, or synthetic grass for a low-maintenance option.

9. Employ colorful borders

Another way to quickly add color to your yard is to plant colorful borders or a picket fence along your home’s exterior. When designing these borders, choose low-maintenance plants. If opting for flowers, perennials like hydrangeas, lavender, and azaleas will return year after year, while annuals will require replanting. 

Plants with colorful blooms bring great texture and vibrance to a front yard garden design, making this an easy, quick way to enhance curb appeal.

10. Hide your trash cans

Most cities now have a three-bin refuse, recycling, and yard waste system. While this is progress for the environment and helps us easily do our part, it also means that we must figure out where to put three waste bins.

It’s ideal to store bins in an accessible, inconspicuous place that does not detract from your home’s curb appeal. Keep your bins out of sight by investing in an enclosure or designing your landscape to create a privacy screen.

Luxury Front Yard Landscaping Ideas

These luxury landscaping ideas can make a significant impact on your curb appeal. Luxury design projects typically require special skills, so you’ll want to hire a professional to ensure they are high quality. 

11. Leverage landscape lighting

Outdoor lighting is an essential part of landscape design and can transform the look of your home after dark. Illuminating entries and dark corners improves home security while lighting driveways, stairs, and walkways increases your family’s and guests’ safety.

Landscape lighting is also one of the easiest ways to accentuate architectural features or interesting landscaping features. Whether you add a few lights around your yard or an entirely new landscape lighting design, upgrading your outdoor lighting will increase your curb appeal. 

12. Add a paving stone driveway or walkway

If you want to make an immediate, significant improvement to your front yard, upgrade to a pattern paver driveway or walkway. Paving stones are available in various colors and styles, so you can find an attractive option to complement any architectural style. Pavers allow you to express your personal style and have unparalleled durability and longevity.

Learn more about paver driveway design here or get an estimate for your project here.

13. Install artificial turf

Landscape design for Southern California front yards is moving away from conventional lawns towards more water-saving options that offer plenty of color and texture without the upkeep of a natural grass lawn. 

If you like the look of a lawn but want a low-water, low-maintenance option, artificial turf offers the same look, feel, and function as natural grass, but requires no mowing, edging, irrigation, fertilizing, or aerating.

14. Add a water feature

A water feature provides a visual focal point to your yard. Bird baths are great additions that charm gardens or small front yards. If you want to create a grand entryway into your home, tiered fountains look elegant. 

Improve Curb Appeal When You Hire the Landscapers at Install-It-Direct!

Our experienced landscaping designers can help design a beautiful, functional front yard that improves curb appeal. Get a free estimate to start planning a front yard you love that increases your home’s curb appeal. 

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