Hydrangeas are a near-perfect plant because they bloom six months out of the year and are relatively easy to grow in pots, indoors or the yard.

Sold in almost all local nurseries and even at grocery stores like Trader Joe’s they’re not even expensive to buy.

Plus, think about the gorgeous blooms you can cut and display around the home.

Even when they’re not blooming, the lush green foliage can be pretty spectacular.

Where to Plant Hydrangeas

Location is critical because too much sun can result in wimpy blooms and a struggling plant. Most hydrangeas thrive in morning sun though the closer to the Southern California coast you are, the more sun a hydrangea plant can handle. If your house is inland, even in San Diego, a north-facing or an east-facing spot is best to protect them from too much sunlight. Hydrangeas won’t do well in heavy shade as the blooms will struggle and isn’t that the point?

Hydrangeas can also thrive in containers though you’ll need to take extra care to avoid water evaporating out. A good rule of thumb is to stick your finger into the pot about two inches down. The soil should be moist, not sludgy, and if it’s dry then add more water. Fertilize them twice in a growing season.

Caring for Hydrangeas

The name hydrangea stems from the Greek word “hydro”, or water, so it’s no surprise that these gorgeous plants love it. Without overwatering and by keeping the ground cool using mulch, water is the key to keeping these plants blooming happily so make sure that where you plant them, there’s suitable irrigation.

Pruning is another thing to be mindful of. Deadheading (cutting off dead flowers) hydrangeas, like a lot of other flowers, promotes more bloom growth. Be sure to only prune dead flowers and branches as cutting off just old wood may also cut off the bulbs meant to bloom in the new season. Some suggest not pruning hydrangeas at all in the fall, winter or spring for this very reason. Hydrangeas are actually deciduous and lose their leaves in the winter and if you have a new plant that’s little and, perhaps, unfamiliar to your gardener they may pull it out thinking it’s dead (been there). They will look a little bit sickly, except for one variety called oak leaf hydrangea will sport red and orange fall-like leaves.

If you happen to live in a place where it snows (yes, it does snow even in inland San Diego), consider planting hydrangeas in pots and moving them indoors during bursts of really cold weather. Otherwise, make sure the roots are insulated with mulch.

Mopheads or Lacecaps?

Hydrangeas are generally broken down into two groups: mopheads and lacecaps. Mophead hydrangeas are typically rounded clusters of showy blooms of blue, pink or white. Most mopheads bloom in the late spring and summer though some bloom randomly year-round in Southern California. Mophead blooms can reach up to 14 inches in diameter!

Lacecaps (shown above) have small flowers and look sort of flat and empty in the center. And, within the two groups are a quite a few species and varieties. The leaves can even vary in color, too.

Changing Color of Hydrangeas

Though in Southern California it’s pretty easy to buy either blue or pink mophead hydrangeas, you can change pink to blue and blue to pink or even deepen the color shades.

How, you ask?

It’s actually quite simply done by adjusting soil pH. This technique doesn’t work with white mophead flowers, however.

The pH of the soil determines how much aluminum is available to plants. Soil with low levels of aluminum produce pink flowers (pH about 6) while soil with high levels of aluminum turns mophead hydrangea flowers blue (pH below 6). Soil pH around 6-7 produces flowers that are typically purple or a mix of blue and pink on a single shrub.

To make the soil more acidic for blue hydrangeas, sprinkle sulpher over the garden soil (usually about 1/2 cup) at the base of the hydrangea and water it in. For more basic soil resulting in pink hydrangeas, sprinkle about 1/2 of lime on to the soil at the base of the hydrangeas and water it in. Patience is key, because the process may need to be repeated a few times over the span of months in order to achieve desired results.

Note that companion plants may be affected by changing soil pH so consult your gardener or local nursery to double check if anything nearby may be affected.

When to Cut Flowers

Part of the reason for growing these beautiful blooms is to display them proudly in vases, but they often don’t last long after cutting. To prevent quick wilting, try these two preservation methods.

• Buy alum in the spice section of a major grocery store. Cut the hydrangeas on a cool morning and drop the stems immediately into water after cutting. As you are cutting the stems to the desired height, dip the freshly-cut stem into powdered alum. Arrange the stems in a vase with water. Even though the alum washes off, for whatever reason, people say this works.
• Alternatively, after cutting hydrangeas, place the stems immediately into a container full of water per the method above. Boil water, let it cool for a few minutes and then pour it into a safe container. Cut the hydrangea stems to a desired length and plunge the ends into boiling water for 30 seconds or so. Next, arrange the flowers (immediately) as desired in a vase with room temperature water.

Other Hydrangea Tips

It’s best to buy hydrangeas when in bloom because it’s not uncommon for retailers to accidentally mislabel them. Plus the bloom you start with may not be the bloom you end up with because the color is so dependent on the pH of the soil, as mentioned above.

It’s extremely important to consult your local nursery about which kind of hydrangea will grow well in your yard. Some can actually get quite big, even up to 12 feet tall and wide!

Your Turn…

Which types of hydrangeas do you have success with in your yard?

*Photo credits: white hydrangeas, stock.xchng/Kblack; blue hydrangea, stock.xchng/bwilhelms; lacecap hydrangeas, stock.xchng/ianmurray; pink hydrangeas, morguefile/faith1110

The post Tips for Growing Hydrangeas in Southern California appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Benefits of Growing Sunflowers

Adding sunflowers to your yard is an easy way to add height, texture, and color to your landscaping. They are a cheerful addition that complements most architecture and landscape designs. They can spruce up a lackluster patio, hide an ugly fence, or add privacy to your outdoor living areas. But did you know that they also can be used to remove radiation from soil in contaminated areas?

Before we get into how to grow sunflowers, let’s look at 16 of the benefits they offer.

1. You can plant sunflowers to protect your garden or crops by attracting birds with their vibrant colors and tasty seeds.

2. Planting sunflowers to provide afternoon shade for food plants can help them survive the heat of Southern California summers.

3. Sunflowers add height to your garden and are great for planting in the back row of borders.

4. The height of sunflowers can help you block the view of air conditioning units, trash cans, or other unsightly things in your yard.

5. A row of sunflowers can increase privacy around your outdoor living areas.

6. Sunflowers are allelopathic, which means other plants do not grow well near them. This makes them a good choice for limiting weed growth.

7. If you like to watch squirrels frolic in your yard, you can plant sunflowers to attract them.

8. Sunflowers attract pollinators to your yard, which is good for your other plants, particularly those that produce food.

9. Sunflowers attract birds to your yard, which is good for bird watching and for pest control, since they will gladly eat insects while they are visiting.

10. Sunflowers are not considered toxic to humans, dogs, cats, or horses.

11. Sunflowers provide delicious, nutritious seeds that you and your family can enjoy.

12. You can also use sunflower seeds to fill your birdfeeders or simply allow the birds to eat them right off the flower.

13. Sunflowers are used for phytoremediation, which is a process in which plants are used to remove toxins, such as heavy metals and chemicals, from contaminated soil. Soil contaminants that can be removed by sunflowers include lead, cadmium, arsenic, chromium, and zinc.

14. Sunflowers make beautiful centerpieces and floral arrangements, so they are a solid addition to a cutting garden.

15. The root systems that help sunflowers stand tall add organic matter to the soil as they die and improve the soil structure for better water retention.

16. Sunflower leaves can be used as livestock feed.

Side note: If you are planting sunflowers to help remove toxins from soil you know to be contaminated, do not put the dead flowers, leaves, or stems in your compost bin or municipal yard waste bin. Also, do not feed the seeds, leaves, or any other part of the plant to birds or livestock.

How to Grow Sunflowers in Southern California

Plant Sunflower Seeds in a Sunny Spot

Sunflowers thrive when planted in areas that receive at least six hours of sun each day. You can plant them to shade other plants that require protection from the heat, but make sure taller varieties will not block the sun from reaching nearby plants completely.

Protect Sunflowers from the Wind

Taller varieties of sunflowers require protection from the wind to help ensure that the stalks do not bend or break. If your yard is frequently affected by wind, consider planting your sunflowers near a structure, such as a fence or shed, that can provide some protection.

Prepare the Soil

Before you plant sunflower seeds, prepare the soil by adding compost or mulch and mixing it in at least the first foot of soil. While this is not entirely necessary with sunflowers, it is always a good idea to make sure any flowering plant receives adequate nutrients to help ensure that your plants are healthy and that you and your family can enjoy bigger blossoms and a better harvest.

Know-How and When to Plant Sunflower Seeds

You can purchase sunflower seedlings at a local garden center, but is easy and less expensive to grow them from seeds. Sunflowers grow well when the seeds are planted directly in your garden, especially in areas like Southern California. Just make sure that you plant them after the last frost in spring. They grow best once the soil temperature has reached between 70 and 85 degrees.

Before planting sunflower seeds, place them in a plastic bag or food storage container with a wet paper towel for a couple of days. Do not seal the bag or container, and add water as needed to keep the paper towel moist. After a couple of days, look for the seeds that have sprouted, since these will be the best ones to plant in your garden to start seeing sunflowers soonest.

Plant seeds about one inch deep and about six inches apart in rows spaced two to three feet apart. If you are planning on cutting the flowers for use in arrangements or harvesting the seeds, plant some of your seeds every two weeks so that you will have a longer harvesting period.

Thin Sunflowers as They Grow

If you mostly plan on cutting your sunflowers for arrangements, you can allow them to grow closer together – even as close as about three inches apart – which will result in smaller flowers, but you will have more of them to adorn vases around your house.

If your main goal is to have a good harvest of seeds or to grow your sunflowers as tall as possible, you will need to thin them to about one foot apart to give each one room to grow and thrive.

Protect Seeds and Plants from Wildlife

As soon as you plant sunflower seeds, any nearby rats, mice, birds, squirrels, or snails will be happy to dig them up and eat them. This means that you will need to protect your seeds and give them a chance to grow by using a barrier to keep wildlife away from them. Hardware cloth laid over the ground is a good deterrent that should do the job.

If you have deer that frequent your garden, you will also need to protect your plants from these visitors, which you can do by using chicken wire around the flowers and stalks to act as deer fencing to keep them out.

Once your flowers produce seeds, you may want to cover the flowers loosely with a material that allows for good airflow to protect the seeds from birds and squirrels. Pantyhose are a popular choice for this, since bird netting can cause injury or death to birds that get trapped under it.

Water Sunflowers Properly

Sunflower seeds take about one to two weeks to germinate. During this time, you will need to keep the soil moist. As your plants grow and become established, start reducing the number of times you water them until you are down to one day per week. Their extensive root systems make sunflowers partially drought tolerant, so one day per week should be good for most of the year. During times of drought or excessive heat, you will need to increase irrigation accordingly.

Support Tall Varieties

Taller varieties of sunflowers may need support as their height increases and the flowers begin to weigh more. Your sunflowers may also need support if you live in a windy area. You can support sunflowers by staking them or by using twine to attach them to a nearby fence, tree, or structure.

Know When to Harvest Seeds

We will discuss how to harvest and use sunflower seeds in the next section. The first step is knowing when to harvest them. Signs to look for to know when to harvest sunflower seeds include the seeds darkening in color, the small petals covering the seeds drying and shriveling, the back of the flowers turning from green to yellow-brown, and the flowers beginning to droop. When you see these changes happening, it is time to harvest the seeds and remove the stalks.

Compost Remaining Leaves and Stalks

Once you have harvested the blossoms for seeds, remove the rest of the plant, cut it into manageable pieces, and add it to your compost bin. Keep in mind that you should not add it to your compost bin if you planted the sunflowers to clean up contaminated soil. In that case, you will either place the dead sunflowers in your trash bin or, if your soil was particularly contaminated, you may need to dispose of them as hazardous waste.

How to Harvest and Use Sunflower Seeds

Folks who are growing sunflowers to use as cut flowers can simply harvest the stems and blossoms as needed.

Those who are growing the seeds to attract wildlife to their yards can either leave the flowers uncovered for birds and squirrels to enjoy while they are on the plant or you can harvest the flowerheads and leave them around your yard with the seed side facing up so that critters can access them. Please note that this will attract all sorts of critters to your yard, including some that you might not want there, such as rats and mice.

Alternatively, you can remove the seeds from the flowers and scatter them throughout your yard, which will attract birds and squirrels but will also attract unwanted animals. The best option for sharing them with wildlife in your yard is to add them to a birdfeeder or squirrel feeder to hopefully just attract the animals you would like to see more of while not providing easy food for animals you do not want in your yard or garden.

If you are harvesting the seeds for use as food for you and your family, cut the stalks about one foot below the flowerheads. Use the attached stalk to hang the flower upside down in a warm, dry area to allow the seeds to dry for a few weeks. Moisture can cause mold growth or spoil your seeds, so be sure to choose a dry spot for drying your sunflowers.

Once the seeds have dried, remove them from the flower by using a brush to knock them loose or by rubbing two flowerheads together. Lay out parchment paper or baking sheets so that you can spread out the seeds to dry further.

If you plan on using them raw or if you are saving them to plant next year, or saving them to use in your birdfeeder over the next few months, store seeds in mason jars once they are completely dry. If you prefer roasted sunflower seeds, heat your oven to 350 degrees, spread the seeds out on baking sheets, and roast them for 10 to 15 minutes. When they are turning slightly brown, you will know they are done.

To make roasted and salted sunflower seeds, soak the seeds in saltwater overnight, drain them, pat them dry, and then spread them out on baking sheets before roasting them.

How to Use Sunflower Seeds, Roots, Stalks, Leaves, and Petals

You can always plant sunflower seeds just for looks, but if you would like to harvest and use your sunflowers, here are some suggestions you might try.

1. Sunflower roots, petals, and seeds can be used to make herbal teas.
2. Add sunflower seeds to salads or eat alone to benefit from their iodine, vitamin E, iron, potassium, protein, magnesium, vitamin B, and vitamin C.
3. Harvest sunflower seeds to add to birdfeeders to feed wild birds and attract birds to your yard.
4. Steam sunflower leaves for a flavorful side dish.
5. Add sunflower leaves or stalks to salads or stir-fries.
6. Roast the seeds for a healthy snack.
7. Harvest the seeds to make your own sunflower oil.
8. Use the seeds to make sunflower seed butter, which is a nut-free alternative to peanut butter or almond butter.
9. Grind sunflower seeds to make nut-free, gluten-free flour.
10. Make sunflower milk out of the seeds.
11. Use the seeds to make dairy-free sunflower seed cheese. 

The post How to Grow Sunflowers in Southern California appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

This colored foliage is often confused for a poinsettia flower, but it is actually a grouping of bracts, which are specialized leaves. The flowers are the tiny yellow buds clustered at the center of these leaf groupings.

Most people purchase poinsettias for the Christmas holidays, and then discard them once they lose the bright red foliage for which they are known. Because of the short time they spend in our homes, most Americans believe that poinsettias are houseplants. In fact, they are commonly referred to and treated as plants by nurseries, gardeners, and even the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). However, they are actually small, tropical trees native to Southern Mexico that can grow up to 12 feet tall in the wild.

Historically, poinsettias were used to decorate churches in Mexico and Guatemala and for medicinal purposes and fabric dye by the Aztecs. They were first introduced in the United States in 1828 by Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, who was the first American ambassador to Mexico.

Poinsett later died on December 12, 1851, which is why December 12 is the date on which we celebrate National Poinsettia Day each year.

According to the Floriculture Crops 2015 Summary, which is the most recent survey available from the USDA, there are more poinsettias sold in the United States each year than any other potted, flowering plant.

Nearly 32 million poinsettias were sold in 2015, which was slightly down from the 33.6 million sold in 2014. California was the largest producer of poinsettias with just under 5.8 million units sold by 45 commercial growers across the state in 2015. The Paul Ecke Ranch in Encinitas is the largest producer of poinsettias in the world with the majority grown at their production facility in Guatemala.

While poinsettia plants are most often used solely as holiday décor, with the proper care, they can be kept as houseplants year round or even planted in outdoor flowerbeds or containers if you live in an area that does not get frost or can bring them indoors for the winter.

How to Grow Poinsettias: Starting from Seeds, Cuttings and Established Plants

The easiest way to grow poinsettias is to purchase established plants when they are widely available during the Christmas season. While you will find the best selection in the weeks leading up to Christmas, you will find the best prices if you are willing to wait to see what is left after the holiday has passed.

You can then use these plants to grow additional poinsettias from cuttings or harvested seeds.

Propagating poinsettias from cuttings is easier, more common, and more consistent. To grow poinsettias from cuttings, wait until early summer when new growth begins to happen. Use clean scissors or gardening shears to cut stems that are at least three inches in length. Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormones and place them firmly into a sterile potting substance, such as a mix of sand and perlite or pasteurized potting soil.

Once you have your cuttings planted, place a large plastic bag over the pot to create a mini greenhouse to encourage rooting, and place the plant in a sunny room but not in direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist and, once your new poinsettia plant is firmly rooted, you can transplant it to a larger container filled with potting soil. If your cuttings are intended for the garden, it is best to transplant them in the fall in an area that receives light shade. Remember: Your poinsettias will only do well in the ground outdoors if you live in an area that does not have frost.

Your other option is to grow poinsettias from seeds. Poinsettia seeds can be a bit difficult to find, but you can order them online or harvest them from established plants. Harvest the seed pods in the center of the bracts when the foliage begins to brown. You will then need to dry the seed pods until they open and reveal the seeds. The easiest way to do this is to store them in a paper bag until they dry and open on their own.

Using one seed per pot, plant your seeds about an inch below the soil level and set your pots in a sunny room but not in direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist and watch for seedlings to begin appearing after about one to two weeks.

Growing Poinsettias: How to Care for Poinsettias Throughout the Year

Most of you are going to acquire your poinsettias during the holidays, and then continue to grow them in pots in hopes of enjoying the same showy displays of color next time Christmas comes around. So, as we look at how to grow poinsettias, we will focus on seasonal poinsettia care that will help keep your plants healthy and ensure you have plenty of opportunities to obtain cuttings to propagate new plants. This will allow you to enjoy your poinsettias for years to come.

Winter Poinsettia Care

You will most likely bring your poinsettias home during the winter, but even if you have existing plants you acquired last Christmas, the seasonal care will be the same.

The first thing to note is that poinsettias planted in the ground will only survive the winter in areas where there is no frost. Poinsettias planted in containers should be brought indoors during winter.

Keep your poinsettias in a sunny room away from warm or cold drafts. They should not be near windows, heating vents, or fireplaces. While they do like sun, they do not like a lot of direct sun, so they will fare best in areas with indirect sunlight, such as rooms where sunlight is filtered through light curtains. Keep in mind that poinsettias are sensitive to heat and cold, and they will lose their bracts if the ambient temperature varies too far outside of the 60-70 degree range.

It is okay to leave the decorative foil in place through the holidays, but if you plan to keep your plant beyond the season, you will then need to remove the foil. This will allow for better drainage. Keep the soil consistently moist during this time.

Since this is when poinsettias flower, you do not need to fertilize during the winter season.

Late Winter into Spring Poinsettia Care

You will likely enjoy the colorful bracts on your poinsettias through February or March. When the color is gone, it is time to prepare your poinsettia plant to get a little rest before it is time to start growing again. Cut the plant back to about six inches and make sure there is still a leaf or two on each stem. At this time, start watering your plants only when the soil is dry and give them a little houseplant fertilizer every two weeks.

This is also a good time to repot any plants that have overgrown their containers or are on need of an upgrade from the cheap, plastic pots they were sold in for the holidays.

Once the temperature is consistently above about 50 degrees, you can move your poinsettias outside. Just be sure to set them in an area with no direct sunlight and at least part shade.

Late Spring into Summer Poinsettia Care

Continue to water and fertilize your plants in the same manner. Around the end of July or beginning of August, it is time to prune your plants again. Leave stems that are at least four inches in length with one to three leaves on each stem.

Fall Poinsettia Care

Continue to water and fertilize your poinsettia plant in the same manner. If you live in an area where the temperature drops below about 45 degrees at night, you will need to bring your plants indoors. Remember to keep them away from heat sources, drafts, and direct sunlight.

Perhaps most importantly, this is when you will need to begin your preparations to encourage the bracts to change color and form the poinsettia flower we all know and love.

Growing Poinsettias: How to Make Poinsettias Bloom

Okay, so we have already covered that what most of us consider a poinsettia flower is actually a grouping of specialized leaves called bracts. However, these bracts are related to flowering, so it is accurate to say that we are trying to get the poinsettia to bloom.

Bracts change color to show off their vibrant red, pink, orange, white, cream, or marbled hues through a process called photoperiodism. To achieve this, each plant must experience complete darkness for about 14 hours every night. Anything less than complete darkness will disrupt the process and you will not have poinsettia flowers for Christmas this year. This means that it cannot be exposed to a street light, night light, or even the light from your phone screen.

To make sure your poinsettia is not exposed to light, you can cover them for 14 hours every night using a large, carboard box, an opaque garbage bag, or opaque shade cloth. You can also place your plants in a closet or bathroom, but make sure that no light will sneak in beneath the door. During the day, uncover your plants and make sure they get plenty of sunlight for at least six hours during the day (but not more than 10 hours).

You will need to continue this daily routine for about 10 weeks to make poinsettias bloom, so you will need to begin this process in mid-October to hopefully have color for pre-holiday parties.

Once the bracts begin to show color, you can stop maintaining this strict light-and-dark schedule and bring your plant back out into your home for you and your guests to enjoy.

At this point, you will want to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Discontinue fertilizing during the blooming stage and start again in spring when you prune your plants.

Unsure if poinsettias will thrive in your La Mesa, Poway, or Vista yard? Contact us for advice today.

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They are often the last flowers standing after weeks of removing dead blooms from bouquets and do not have a scent, which makes them a perfect addition to arrangements with more aromatic flowers. Although referred to as a Peruvian lily, alstroemeria is not a true lily and is generally considered a pet-friendly choice that is not known to be toxic to cats or dogs. This makes it a good choice for gardeners looking for a versatile addition for their backyard cutting gardens. It should be noted, however, that the ASPCA does consider the Peruvian lily potentially harmful to cats if consumed in large amounts, which can induce vomiting and diarrhea.

Alstroemerias come in almost any color you can imagine, including yellow, pink, purple, red, orange, lavender, peach and blue. You can grow them in containers, cutting gardens, island flowerbeds, or borders, and the wide variety of cultivars available ensures that you will be able to find options that are well suited for your climate and cut flower needs. Since Peruvian lilies are relatively easy to plant and maintain, the most difficult thing about growing alstroemerias will likely be choosing which colors to grow.

As with most plants, it is best to buy alstroemerias as close to home as possible. Local nurseries stock and will be able to recommend varieties that thrive in your area. They will also be a valuable resource if you have any future questions or issues.

How, When and Where to Plant Alstroemerias

Alstroemeria plants are difficult to start from seed, and those started from seed are usually not as impressive as their parent plants. If you choose to start alstroemerias from seeds, soak the seeds overnight and start them in seed starting trays. After about six weeks, you should have at least a few seedlings ready to transplant into containers or your garden. If you are planting Peruvian lilies in the ground or raised beds, plant your seedlings about 12 inches apart. Add a layer of mulch around the plants and water thoroughly. Alstroemeria plants started from seed will take longer to flower.

Alstroemeria plants are also difficult to start from bare root tubers and are vulnerable to fungal diseases while they are not in soil. So, while this may seem like an easy option with wide availability online, you may be disappointed with the results and may end up with nothing growing at all. If you decide to start your plants from bare root tubers, plant them in fertile, well-draining soil at least 12 inches apart.

It is best to start your first round of alstroemerias from established plants available in containers from a local nursery. Plant them 12 to 24 inches apart in well-draining soil. Add a layer of mulch around the plants and water thoroughly.

Alstroemerias will stop blooming if the soil gets too hot. This means that you can plant them in full sun if you live in coastal California, but you will want to choose a place with partial shade if you live farther inland. If you are growing alstroemeria in containers, use larger planters to keep the soil from overheating. Another option for plants in containers is that you can move them onto a covered patio or other shaded area during warmer months.

How to Care for Alstroemerias

Growing alstroemeria is relatively easy and does not require much time or effort. With proper care, you can get many varieties to bloom from late spring or early summer through fall, during which time you should be watering regularly to promote increased flower development. When the weather is not too hot, you should be able to deeply irrigate your flowerbeds once per week. During the hottest times of the year, you will likely need to water more often.

Your plants will then go dormant for a few months between growing cycles. While the plants are dormant, you can cut back on watering while they rest. If you live in an area that freezes, be sure to add a thick layer of mulch to your garden bed to keep your alstroemerias cozy over winter.

Gardeners generally do not have many pest issues with alstroemeria plants. Slugs and snails are really the only issues and you can ward these pests off by running some copper tape around the edges of your containers or flowerbeds.

Most gardeners who grow the alstroemeria flower do so for the purpose of cutting them for use in floral arrangements. During the first growing season, most gardeners cut the stems for use in bouquets. After the first year, you can encourage future blooms by pulling the stems from the base of the plant. For those who are not regularly cutting flowers for arrangements, you will want to deadhead your plants as your flowers fade. Unlike other flowering plants where you deadhead by simply pulling off the dying flower, with the alstroemeria flower, you deadhead by removing the entire stem. This causes a small amount of damage that encourages more flowers to grow.

You will start to notice your alstroemeria plants flowering less somewhere between two and four years after planting them. Once you notice this, it is time to divide the plants to keep these perennials thriving. Most gardeners prefer dividing their alstroemerias in April. At this time, they gently dig up the fragile roots, divide them, and immediately replant them to get them back in the soil before any fungal issues can occur. Add a layer of mulch and water the container or flowerbed until the soil is thoroughly moist. This is also a great opportunity to turn the soil or add amendments before planting your divided plants.

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While some orchids do better in indoor filtered light, others thrive in Southern California sunshine. Cymbidium orchids are a top pick for gardeners who are just beginning to tackle outdoor orchids because they are particularly well-suited to our climate and don’t require as much care, relatively speaking.

Once a hobby of the elite, orchids are now available for purchase everywhere from local nurseries to Trader Joe’s. And, their prices won’t break the bank, thanks to nursery tissue labs cloning heartier plants in higher quantities.

Even so, cymbidium orchids are rarely seen in San Diego gardens. Be the envy of your neighborhood by adding them to yours.

Here’s how…

About Cymbidium Orchids

Cymbidium orchids aren’t native to the United States. In the wild, they’re found in Asia and certain parts of Australia. Dating back hundreds of years ago, orchid hunters risked life and limb to seek out rare and unusual orchids such as for collectors. Many of these prized orchids wound up in the UK where they remain registered today.

It’s thought that cymbidiums arrived in California in the early 1900s but they didn’t become popular until much later. Wealthy homeowners hired horticulturalists who were able to source rare orchids (often from the UK) as centerpieces of lavish gardens.

Decades later during World War II, European and English nurseries sent orchids to the United States in order to preserve stock. The assumption is that these were also studied and cloned. Between the 1950s and 1970s, orchid growing boomed in Central California where a number of growers still exist today on what is known as the California Orchid Trail.

Eventually, the orchid craze faded but it’s currently experiencing a resurgence due to a variety of new color options as well as the development of miniature cymbidiums and pendulous cymbidiums (these pretty drooping blooms are pictured below).

From the approximately 50 species of cymbidium orchids, thousands of hybrids have been developed.

Why Grow Cymbidiums on the Patio?

Leaving colorful, exotic-looking cymbidiums in pots is a fantastic way to accessorize an outdoor living space, brighten up patio pavers and add color to spaces that aren’t plantable. Though the truth is that they don’t tolerate life in the ground as their required rapid drainage isn’t easy to come by in local clay soil unless you are constantly amending it.

Most gardener choose to leave the orchids in black plastic nursery pots that don’t evaporate water as quickly as terracotta and other alternatives do. Should a random hail storm or bout of scorching heat blow through the region, pots enables the plants to be moved out of harms way. Gardeners in inland San Diego will likely need to shift pots around to avoid heat.

Plant cymbidiums in orchid bark, commonly found at nurseries. 

Flower Color

Thanks to clever plant breeders, cymbidium flowers range from white, green, yellow, orange, burgundy, pink and purple with even some multi-color varieties.  As many as 35 blooms can be seen on a single spike which last for up to about 8 weeks on the plant. Flowers range from about 2-5″ in diameter.

Plants bloom any time from September through June, depending on the type, though most bloom in February.  Some newer cymbidium hybrids even bloom twice in a year. When they are not in bloom, the plants gorgeous arching leaves still provide plenty of visual interest.

Water, Light and Fertilization Needs

Interestingly enough, they do not grow well indoors because they need to experience temperature fluctuation in order to bloom. This is part of the reason why they don’t do well in climates such as Florida. If you insist on growing them inside, put them outside at night.

These orchids prefer bright light (as opposed to direct sunlight, unless it’s winter when they can tolerate direct sunlight along the coast) but cool locations and moist soil that’s not soaking wet. Depending on the weather, San Diego gardeners report watering about once a week on average though this will depend on the orchid’s size, location and pot.

Cymbidiums need fertilizer and the strength depends on the time of year. From April through August, use a high nitrogen fertilizer every 10 days to two weeks. Then from September through January, downgrade to a low nitrogen fertilizer once a month.

These orchids love cool breezes. If temperatures drop down to 26°F, the orchids are hearty enough to handle that for an hour or two. In coastal San Diego, they can pretty much be left outside year round. 

Cymbidiums Communicate Needs

A healthy cymbidium leaf is bright green. If the leaves turn yellow, they are getting too much sun.  Dark green leaves signal too much shade. If the leaf tips turn black or brown, flush the plant with purified water in order to wash away salt from our air and minerals from our water.

Repot Cymbidiums Every 2-4 Years

Every few years, after the roots start to creep up above the pot, cymbidiums need to be divided and repotted after their flowering period. It’s fairly easy to do when you know what to look for and this video does an excellent job of explaining the process.

Pests to Watch For

Snails are the main enemy of cymbidium orchids in Southern California so be sure to have your Sluggo or other natural pest control methods at the ready. Aphids, mealy bugs and white flies are also risks. When clipping or dividing orchids, make sure to sterilize tools in a mixture of diluted bleach in water to avoid cross-contamination of pests and disease.

See Orchids in San Diego

Join the San Diego Orchid Society during monthly meetings on the first Tuesday of each month (with the exception of May and December) at Casa del Prado in Balboa Park. It’s free for the public to attend to attend a meeting but also easy to join the society.

Admire a wide variety of orchids in one place is by attending the A Symphony of Orchids 2014 show and sale at the Scottish Rite Center on March 21-23. The San Diego Orchid Society puts on four events a year and this one is by far the largest and considered the best with educational sessions to sit in, as well.

The Carlsbad Flower Fields open on March 1, 2014 and include touring their cymbidium orchid greenhouse in the cost of admission. These stunning orchids are for sale at the nearby Armstrong Garden nursery.

The San Diego Zoo’s Orchid Odyssey is open to the public on the third Friday of every month as well as select Sundays. Here, cold and hot rooms display a huge variety of orchids from all over the world as well as incredibly rare species. The zoo is home to over 3000 orchids, many of which are publicly displayed around the park when Orchid Odyssey is closed.

Your Turn…

Have you tried to grow cymbidium orchids outside?

Photo credit: top, Flickr/zcopley; pendulous orchid, Flickr/salabat; colorful cymbidiums, Flickr/azn_linsie_hu; yellow cymbidium, Flickr/azn_linsie_hu;

The post How to Grow Cymbidium Orchids Outside in San Diego appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

Some bulbs require a significant amount of care, but we’ll discuss three types that don’t: paperwhites, amaryllis and freesias.

What is Forcing?

First, we should address some bulb lingo for the unfamiliar. Forcing bulbs refers to the process of tricking a bulb into thinking it’s time to bloom. For some bulbs, this means simulating winter early by chilling them outside (for those who live in cold climates) or in the refrigerator.

Paperwhite Narcissus

Perhaps the easiest bulb to grow indoors is a paperwhite and, fortunately, they cost as little as a dollar or less to buy per bulb.  Interestingly enough, they can be forced to grow indoors at any time of the year though they are most popular in the late fall through winter so that we can decorate our homes with fresh blooms during the holidays. These dainty daffodil flowers also fill a room with fragrance during their 4-6 weeks of bloom time.

How to Plant a Paperwhite

Use what you have as these bulbs don’t need dirt. A simple glass or container filled with just enough water to cover the base of the bulb will do. Many support the bulb in containers using decorative gravel or glass pebbles. Beware that too much water can rot the bulb, however. If planting in dirt, use a shallow container and make sure that half to three-quarters of the bulb is exposed, with the pointed end facing up. Water when the soil becomes dry, about an inch down, and place in a warm area to activate the bulb.

Move the paperwhites out of direct sunlight after blooming in order to prolong bloom time. Once the flowers start wilting, it’s time to throw away the bulb as it can’t be preserved or re-used. Paperwhites typically grow upright but if they look like they’re going to topple over, consider tying the stalk to a support.

Should you buy paperwhites in bulk, store them in paper bags and consider staggering your planting (plant a new group every 2 weeks or so) so that you have a container that is always flowering.

Amaryllis

Amaryllis are usually sold in kits for very easy planting and are prized for their giant, exotic-looking blooms at the top of sturdy, straight stems. Flower colors range from white to red to even some striped varieties. Note that larger bulbs potentially bloom more flowers though most sold in kits bloom two and last for about 7 weeks. Amaryllis flowers are quite shy and bloom facing away from each other! Unlike paperwhites, amaryllis bulbs will go dormant and re-bloom with some TLC.

How to Grow Amaryllis

If your amaryllis isn’t in a prepackaged pot, here’s a good rule of thumb:

• • • Buy a big bulb as larger bulbs have the potential to bloom more flowers.
    • Find a pot that allows for about an inch or two of soil around the bulb. The reason is because the bulb needs to feel crowded in order to bloom.
    • Place well-draining soil in the pot but leave about 2/3 of the bulb exposed.
    • If you like, place a stake in the pot now just in case your amaryllis needs support. This was you don’t risk stabbing a root later.
    • Keep the bulb watered but make sure the soil isn’t soaking wet.
    • A stalk should appear in a few weeks. Make sure that it gets an even amount of sunlight to keep it from leaning in a particular direction.
    • Fertilize the amaryllis every 2-3 weeks.

Getting Your Amaryllis to Rebloom

Once the amaryllis flower starts to wilt, cut the entire flower stalk down to about 3-5 inches above the bulb. An amaryllis will also sprout small leaves from the base. It’s important that you don’t cut these off as they store nutrients the bulb will need to survive the remainder of the year. The bulb will need to be fed once a month and to stay watered, though not soaked.

Now, decide whether you’ll store the bulb indoors or choose to plant it outside, which coastal Southern Californians can do as we do not experience freezing temperatures. Just place it in an area with partial shade.

The rule of thumb is to count backward about 10-12 weeks from the time you’ll want flowers and stop watering the bulb then (also stop feeding the month prior). Move the bulb to a dry, cool spot. The lack of water, oddly, will cause another stalk to grow. When this occurs, you’ll move the bulb again to warm spot and resume watering.

Sure, it sounds labor-intensive, but there is something rewarding about successfully re-purposing a bulb.

Freesias

Freesias are small, tubular flowering plants that belong to the iris family and native to South Africa. They are an extremely popular cut flower for purchasing at a florist, also due to their fragrance. Freesia bulbs are actually called corms and you’ll want to plant them in the fall to enjoy the flowers in late winter/early spring.

How to Plant Freesias

• • Plant the corms about 1-2 inches deep and 1-2 inches apart from each other in a shallow container.
  • Freesias prefer nutrient-rich soil with some added grit for extra drainage.
  • Water regularly and keep the planted corms in a cool spot until they bloom.
  • Move the forms to sunlight once they start to sprout and continue to water.
  • Consider adding support for the freesia stems after they bloom as the weight of multiple flowers may cause the stems to droop.

Freesia Tips

Yellow, blue and white freesias last longer cut than the pinks and reds. Regardless of color, flower food helps keep them going in a vase. Freesias can re-bloom but it requires harvesting corm shoots properly. After you dig out the original freesia corm, you’ll notice little corms growing out from it. Remove and care for the new corms, which will take a season or two to bloom. This means keeping them dry and warm in the summer and cool in the winter, just like the African climate they are used to.

Bulbs that Require Chilling

In deep contrast to the three flowering plants mentioned above, tulips and other bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, Dutch iris and scilla) require much more care. Forcing these spring bulbs into bloom requires 3-4 months of chilling at approximately 45°F, which can be done naturally in the ground in colder climates or in a spare refrigerator in Southern California. You’ll need to plant bulbs immediately after purchase and make space to chill the entire planted container properly, making paperwhites, amaryllis and freesias look like a much easier alternative.

Your Turn…

Do you force bulbs? Which are your favorites?

Photo credits: top paperwhite, Flickr/billums; paperwhite in pot, Flickr/briannaorg; amaryllis, Flickr/mmmavocado; amaryllis bulbs, Flickr/edenpictures; hyacinth, Flickr/joshludwig; freesias, Flickr/sleepyneko; tulips, Flickr/Lori L. Stalteri

The post 3 Easy Flower Bulbs to Grow Indoors appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

It’s a practice that dates back thousands of years in many parts of the globe, with the first recordable mention around 140 B.C.

Here are some everyday garden flowers that you may see on a plate.

First: Not All Flowers Are Edible —

Only eat flowers that you are certain are safe to eat. That bouquet of flowers just delivered by the florist is likely not suitable for your stir fry as pesticides and preservatives are often used on display flowers that aren’t suitable for food crops. Also, be particularly mindful of which flowers you eat if you are prone to allergies. People can have strong allergic reactions to edible flowers such as tulips.

Don’t eat wildflowers from roadsides as these can be especially laced with weed killer. Your best bet is to grow your own edible flowers so that you know exactly what pesticides have been used or not. Or, buy organic and dedicated edible flowers from a reputable store or Farmer’s Market.

Remember, some flowers are actually poisonous so make sure you know what you’re eating!

How to Eat Flowers —

Always wash the flowers first. Separating the petals from the pistils and stamens will help prevent wilting and prevent too bitter of a taste. However, it’s OK from a taste perspective to eat entire pansies, violas, nasturtiums and others whole. Perform a taste test prior to using the flower to see if the flavor to your liking. Really, edible flowers can jazz up any dish… even potato chips.

The other hot trend seen at restaurants and bars across the country is the addition of edible flowers to cocktails as color garnishes. Clever bartenders also infuse their aromas into liquers and simple syrups to create amazing craft cocktails.

How to Store Edible Flowers —

Wash edible flowers thoroughly in salt water and then drop them in iced water for 30-60 seconds. Blot dry and then separate the petals to be consumed right away (or serve whole if the flavor permits). If storing the flowers for later, wrap them in damp paper towels for up to a few days. Flowers are highly perishable so they are always best eaten right away.

Many people choose to dry the flowers by leaving them out in open air for a day or two. A food dehydrator can also do the trick.

10 Common Edible Garden Flowers —

1. Pansies

Pansies are one of the most popular choices when it comes to edible flowers because naturally have so many interesting color combinations. Unlike other edible flowers, you can eat an entire pansy with ease due to their mild flavor. Pansies are popular choices for topping cakes, appetizers and as a color addition to salads. Liven up plain cream cheese on a cracker by topping it with a beautiful pansy.

2. Chives

Those who grow chives know that they sprout pretty lavender flowers that are edible and present a mild onion flavor and aroma when added to dishes. Chives are relatively easy to grow even in a small herb garden. Let the chives mature until a flower appears.

3. Nasturtiums

The entire nasturtium plant is edible. The flowers are vibrant pinks, oranges and reds while the leaves have a round, lily-pad-like shape to them. In fact, hundreds of years ago, people used nasturtiums in lieu of pepper by waiting for the seeds to dry and grinding them. In today’s era, the grinding can be done in a coffee grinder dedicated to herbs. Nasturtiums are very easy to grow in Southern California. In fact, they return year after year even after neglect in the worst clay soil.

4. Calendulas

The leaves of calendula flowers can be used as a saffron substitute. In fact, the marigold flower’s nickname is “poor man’s saffron” though to bring out the flavor, you’ll need to chop the flower and cook it in oil. Doing this adds a yellow color to dishes such as soups and rice. In fact, an easy way to prepare saffron is by frying the leaves and onions in oil and adding them to broth when cooking rice to give it a paella flair.

5. Carnations

The flavor of carnations ranges from peppery to mild broccoli depending on the color. Carnations are the “secret” ingredient in a French liquer called Chartreuse. These pretty flowers are often steeped in wine to make a candy and used to garnish desserts due to their nutmeg and clove-like flavor.

6. Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are indigenous to Asia and commonly brewed in teas as well as incorporated into a variety of recipes. Their nutrient-dense greens add a bitter taste to stir fries and soups. The flowers are also completely edible. If you have the pleasure of stumbling upon a specialty tea store, buy a chrysanthemum tea and drop it in a glass teapot. Watch as the entire flower reblooms during steeping of this delicious tea.

As there are a variety of chrysanthemums available, the taste depends on which you buy. However, most are a bit peppery or bitter while a few are bland. The flower’s base, which holds the petals in tact, is usually bitter so consider removing that before cooking. Crown daisy chrysanthemums, often used as salad greens, look more like daisies than the chrysanthemums above.

7. Dandelions

While they grow mostly as in Southern California, when picked young, dandelion flowers have a sweet, honey-like flavor that will grow bitter as they age. Dandelion leaves are popular additions to salads and some even brew dandelion wine (yes, it is alcoholic). Again, if picking them from your garden or lawn, make sure that you are using natural pest and natural weed control.

8. Sunflowers

Believe it or not, when sunflowers are still wound up in a tight bud, they taste like artichokes. After the flowers bloom, pull the leaves off and sprinkle in salads or anywhere else you need yellow. And, don’t forget to eat the seeds or use them to attract birds into the yard.

9. Roses

As there are a number of different roses, the flavor is determined by which you use as well as the soil conditions it’s grown in. The typical flavor is reminiscent of what the rose smells like. The fruity flavor becomes more intense in darker flowers. Roses are commonly preserved into jams and dried for tea.

10. Marigolds

Only the gem variety are edible, including lemon gem and tangerine gem marigolds. As their names imply, they do have a citrus flavor but no scent. The flower base and stems are quite biter, though edible.

Your Turn…

Do you have a favorite edible flower?

Photo credits: flower salad, Flickr/whologwhy; flowers on potato chips, Flickr/stephen valasco; pansies, Flickr/Aylanah; chive, Flickr/Kathy Maister; nasturtium, Flickr/amandabhslater; calendula, Flickr/tillwe; carnation, Flickr/punctuated; rose, Flickr/Parvin; gem marigold, Flickr/photofarmer

The post 10 Edible Flowers To Consider Growing In Your Garden appeared first on INSTALL-IT-DIRECT.

As an herbal remedy, chrysanthemums have been used to relieve headaches, reduce fever, alleviate chest pain, lower high blood pressure and treat diabetes. The flowers and leaves are used in a variety of dishes and herbal teas, mum petals are pulverized and used as an effective insecticide, and this herbaceous perennial continues to play an important role in Asian art and certain celebrations.

Arriving in the United States in the late 1700s, chrysanthemums are primarily grown for ornamental purposes here and have become a common gift plant that is readily available at nurseries, flower shops and even grocery stores. This may be at least partly due to mums coming into fashion as a gift indicating friendship and well wishes during the Victorian Era.

Types of Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums come in hundreds of varieties that range in size from about one foot to about five feet and come in an array of colors, including white, yellow, red, pink, lavender, purple, maroon, and orange.

There are so many types that differ so greatly, folks who are not familiar with mums often think that different varieties of mums are not related at all. While some varieties have simple, daisy-like flowers, some have petals that look more like spider legs, and others have blooms that look like perfectly coiffed bird feathers curving down towards the stem.

The National Chrysanthemum Society has considered this vast array of petal shapes and arrangements and has grouped chrysanthemums into 13 classes, including Irregular Incurve, Reflex, Regular Incurve, Decorative, Intermediate Incurve, Pompon, Single and Semi-Double, Anemone, Spoon, Quill, Spider, Brush or Thistle, and Unclassified or Exotic.

For the most part, you will be looking for hardy mums for your garden that fall into a smaller group of classes: Single or Semi-Double, Anemone, Cushion, or Decorative. The other classes of mums are more difficult to find and more difficult to maintain.

When to Plant Chrysanthemums

In most parts of Southern California, you can plant mums any time of the year. If you live in an area where winter temperatures dip near or below freezing, it is best to plant them in spring so that they have plenty of time to become established before they have to deal with weather that is hotter or colder than they prefer.

When planting mum seeds, start your plants indoors six weeks to two months before the last frost or directly in the ground after the last frost in spring.

When planting from cuttings, it is best to plant them in late spring or early summer.

Where to Plant Chrysanthemums

Ideally, you want to plant mums in an area that gets plenty of morning sun and away from areas that are lit at night by streetlamps or porch lights.

The morning sun will help dry any moisture accumulated overnight. Keeping your mums out of the light during the night will help your plants recognize when the days are getting shorter, which tells them when it is time to start blooming.

Should I Grow Chrysanthemums from Seeds, Cuttings or Potted Plants?

If you plan on growing chrysanthemums from seeds, you can expect it to take about four months for the plants to mature enough to produce flowers. You can start them indoors in seed trays in early spring, then move them into the garden after the last frost. This way, they will already have a few weeks to germinate and develop, which will allow you to enjoy blooms in a shorter period of time once they are in your flowerbeds. It is also important to note that there may be some unexpected color variation when growing mums from seeds, so if you are particular about which color you want in your garden, you may be better off growing mums from cuttings or potted plants.

Potted mums are a popular gift, which means there are plenty of folks wondering if they can transplant this type of potted mums into their garden. The first thing to know is that these potted mums available at nurseries, flower shops and grocery stores for cutting and quick, easy gifts are usually not particularly hardy varieties. This type of mum is best enjoyed indoors, which is where it will survive the longest. If you choose to plant it outside, treat it like an annual, since you can expect to get blooms through the summer and fall, but your plant will die back when the temperature drops and will not come back in the spring.

However, if you purchase hardy mums in containers from a local nursery or garden center, you absolutely can transplant them into your flowerbeds without an issue and expect to enjoy them for years to come. Many gardeners prefer to plant from containers to give their garden a significant head start with plants that already have flowers.

Growing chrysanthemums from cuttings is an inexpensive way to propagate mums and expand your garden, but it does take a little patience and effort. You can acquire mum cuttings from your existing chrysanthemums or from established plants at a friend or family member’s house. This allows you to essentially grow mums for free, although you may want to purchase some rooting powder at your favorite garden center to help your cuttings take root.

Most home gardeners have the most success and enjoy their mums the most when they grow them from cuttings or transplant hardy mums purchased in pots.

How to Plant Chrysanthemums from Seeds

To grow mums from seeds, you can either start them indoors and later transplant them to your garden or you can sow the seeds directly in your flowerbeds.

If you live in an area that freezes, you can plant mum seeds in the ground after the last spring frost, and then wait approximately four months for them to mature enough to begin producing blooms. Alternatively, you can start them several weeks before the last frost by planting them in seed trays or small containers indoors to later be moved to your garden. This does not save time, since it will still take four months to go from seed to flowering plant, but it does allow you to give them a big head start, which means you can begin enjoying colorful blossoms earlier in the year.

Most gardeners choose to start their seeds indoors in seed trays or small seed-starting containers. To do this, fill each container (or spot in your seed tray) with sterile potting mix. Add a few chrysanthemum seeds and gently cover them with a thin layer of soil. Use a dropper or turkey baster to moisten the soil with water without splashing and making a mess. Set your seed pots near a sunny window, ideally in a room that can stay right around 70 degrees.

Make sure your soil is consistently moist for the first 10 days to two weeks. After you begin seeing sprouts coming through the soil, you can allow the soil to dry out a bit more between watering. You will notice more than one seedling coming up in each pot. Once these are large enough to easily cut with kitchen or garden sheers or a sharp knife, begin thinning them to produce fewer, stronger seedlings to transplant.

Once the last frost of spring occurs, you can transplant your seedlings into your garden. If you live in an area with colder weather, you may want to start placing your seed pots outdoors during the day and bringing them in at night before transplanting them to allow them time to acclimate.

Just a quick reminder: As mentioned above, you may not get the color you are expecting when you grow mums from seeds. Due to cross-pollination, mums sometimes look nothing like their parent plants.

How to Plant Chrysanthemums from Cuttings

When taking cuttings from established plants, choose healthy shoots of new growth that are at least three inches in length. Use sheers or a knife to cut them from the plant, and then remove leaves from the bottom one to two inches of the stem. Place each of your cuttings about one-half inch deep in a tray or seed pots filled with perlite, potting soil or peat moss. While it is not absolutely necessary, you may want to dip the stems in rooting powder to help your plants get a good start.

Keep the soil moist until the roots develop, which will happen within one to four weeks but usually happens by about two to three weeks. Once the root system takes hold, you can allow the soil to dry out a bit more between watering. To encourage fuller plant growth, pinch off about one-half inch from the top of new shoots once the cutting is rooted in the soil.

Once your cuttings take root, gently transplant them into larger pots to allow the root system to expand for at least one more month before transplanting your new plants outdoors in your garden.

How to Plant Chrysanthemums from Potted Plants

Many gardeners prefer to purchase established mums in containers to transplant into their gardens. If this is your chosen method, simply dig holes about twice the size of the pot and plant your mums about 18 inches to two feet apart, depending on the variety. If you are planting in the ground in the clay soil found throughout much of the San Diego area and Southern California, you will want to mix in some compost to add nutrients and improve drainage.

Fill the holes around the plants, give them a good watering, and prepare to enjoy some colorful blooms in late summer and throughout the fall.

Keep in mind that mums have shallow root systems, so be sure to plant the root ball just below the soil surface.

Chrysanthemum Care

Once established, chrysanthemums require little care aside from regular watering and deadheading. Once the blooms are spent in late fall or early winter, you can remove the dead flowers, and then either leave the plant as is over winter or cut it back to a few inches above ground level. Most gardeners choose to cut it back and add a layer of mulch around the base of each plant to help it get through winter and prepare for it to come back strong in spring.

Most mum growers also like to encourage fuller, bushier growth by pinching back the tips on new stems until the middle of July. Then, you can allow your mums to grow on their own for the rest of the blooming season.

Feed your mums about once a month with a small amount of granular or a water-soluble fertilizer during the growing season.

Chrysanthemums grow well in containers, which is a good option for gardeners living in areas with colder winters. When growing mums in containers, bring your mums indoors after the first frost and take them back outside after the last frost in spring.

Dividing Chrysanthemums

While mums can be grown as annuals or perennials, you should select hardy perennial varieties for your flowerbeds and borders. Once your plants are established, you will want to divide them every few years, which helps you avoid overly woody plants and provides you with more chrysanthemums that you can continue to divide and plant over the years to always have a supply of healthy mums.

Dividing chrysanthemums is a simple process that is done in spring. Once you see a couple of inches of new growth on your mums in the spring, dig up the entire plant. You will then use a sharp knife to cut through the root ball to create three or four separate plants. If some divisions are rather woody, add those to your yard waste bin or compost pile, but save the healthy divisions to replant in your yard.

Dig a hole that is about twice the size of the root ball of your division, add some compost, place your division in the hole so that the root system is near the soil surface, and cover it with soil. Water it well and feed it with a small amount of fertilizer about once a month.

Are Chrysanthemums Toxic for Dogs and Cats?

Mums are toxic to dogs, cats and horses. Even if they do not eat them, mums can cause skin irritation simply by coming in contact with your pets while they walk by or play near the plants. If you suspect that they may have eaten some of your mums, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) says to look out for vomiting, diarrhea, incoordination, hypersalivation, and dermatitis.

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Symbolizing remembrance, strength, honor and integrity, gladiolus is the birth flower for the month of August and the flower associated with 40th wedding anniversaries. But even for those born at other times of the year, these beautiful blooms are a welcome addition to cutting gardens and butterfly gardens and are often used to add color and height in landscaping design.

Gladioli grow to heights of between about two and five feet and come in single and bi-colored blooms in a wide variety of colors, including white, cream, yellow, green, orange, apricot, pink, red, and purple.

Planting Gladiolus Bulbs

Gladiolus is often planted in the back of flowerbeds and borders as a tall, colorful addition among other flowers and plants or against fences and structures to provide support for taller varieties. They prefer full sun and well-draining soil and do not compete well with weeds. They can be grown in the ground, raised garden beds or containers.

Choose a spot in your garden that gets at least six hours of sun each day. If you have the heavy, clay soil that is found throughout much of Southern California, you may want to plant your gladioli in containers or raised beds.

The bulbs will rot in heavy, wet soil, so it is imperative that the soil is well draining. To make your clay soil more habitable for glads, work compost into the top 10 to 12 inches to improve the soil structure and enhance drainage.

Once you have prepared the soil, plant smaller corms (bulbs) about three to four inches deep and larger corms about five to six inches deep. Whether you are planting in rows or interspersing your gladioli with other flowering plants, be sure to give each corm about eight inches of space on all sides.

How to Care for Gladiolus

Gladioli are easy-to-grow bulbs that require little care once established. In zones 8 and above, you can overwinter your corms in the ground, making these a low-maintenance perennial that will continue to provide your garden with beautiful blooms year after year. In zones 7 and below, you will need to dig up the corms each year before winter and replant them near the last frost in spring.

Glads are most often planted in spring and once you have the bulbs in the ground, there is little more to do. You will need to keep the soil moist but not soggy as the roots and first shoots develop. You can then move to one inch of water per week but will likely need to double that when it is particularly hot and dry. Adding a thick layer of mulch around the plants will help the soil retain moisture while also providing some support for the base of the plant.

You will need to keep your flowerbeds completely free of weeds, since gladioli do not compete well. If you choose to fertilize throughout the growing season, you will want to add your first dose of water-soluble fertilizer once your glads are about 10 inches tall, and then again when you first begin to see color on your flower spikes.

Some of the shorter varieties of gladiolus will do fine without staking, but most varieties require staking to support the long, narrow flower spikes. Inexpensive, circular supports are usually all you need for this.

Flower spikes and leaves can be cut for floral arrangements, but be sure to leave enough of the leaves to allow the plant to continue to thrive.

If left on the plant to add color to your garden, deadhead blooms as they fade, but do not remove the foliage until the end of the blooming season when the foliage yellows. You can then remove the foliage and add a layer of mulch to overwinter the corms in the ground.

If you live in zone 7 or below, dig up the bulbs, brush off debris, cut the stock to about ½-inch to one inch from the top of the corm, dry the corms in the sun for a few days, and then place them in a bucket with peat moss to store in a cool, dry spot until spring.

Gladiolus grown from healthy corms usually have few issues with pests or diseases. The most common issue with gladioli are thrips, which are insects that eat the foliage. If you begin to see potential insect damage, spray each plant with a neem oil-based insecticide to eradicate the infestation.

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It’s true: These long-lived favorites of florists, royalty and brides can flourish for 100 years or more and will keep on producing their beautiful blooms every year to liven up your flowerbeds in the spring and summer. They are easy to grow once established, come in a variety of hues and scents, and look lovely in bouquets. As an added bonus, deer are not fans of peonies, so this is a perfect addition to your deer-resistant flower garden.

Native to the western United States and Canada, southern Europe and much of Asia, peonies are hardy to zone 3 and grow best in temperate or cold climates – particularly since colder winter weather brings better blooms when spring comes around. But while not all varieties will bloom to their fullest in the hotter parts of Southern California, they can be grown successfully here, particularly if you work with your nearest nursery to find the variety that will best thrive where you live.

The majestic peony was once the national flower of China, is still Indiana’s state flower, and is the flower associated with 12th wedding anniversaries. The romantic, full blooms are often seen in wedding bouquets and are considered a symbol of a happy marriage and good fortune. Outside of the wedding scene, peonies symbolize honor, wealth, compassion, prosperity, nobility, and – of course – romance.

But these pretty blossoms are not just for looks: Historically, they have been used for both medicinal and culinary purposes, and they are still used today as a home remedy, in salads, and floating delicately in punch bowls at garden parties.

In Traditional Chinese Medicine, peonies are used to treat fever, inflammation, muscle cramps, rheumatoid arthritis, and a variety of other ailments. They have also historically been used in other parts of the world to treat respiratory conditions, such as asthma, and everyday ailments, such as headaches.

Today, some of the most common medicinal uses for peony root is the treatment of menstrual cramps, migraines, fatigue, polycystic ovary syndrome, cirrhosis of the liver, hepatitis, cracked skin, and stomach cramps. It should be noted that pregnant women should not use peony medicinally since it has historically been used to induce miscarriage, and that anyone considering using medicinal plants should first speak to their healthcare provider to discuss possible side effects and interactions with drugs or herbal supplements.

Types of Peonies

Peonies come in two basic plant types: herbaceous plants and trees. Herbaceous peonies come in six basic flower types: single, double, semi-double, anemone, Japanese, and bomb. The types most often seen in Western gardens and bouquets are doubles, bombs and, less often, semi-doubles.

Work with your local nursery to choose the varieties that are best for your area and to find two or three cultivars with different blooming seasons so that you can enjoy beautiful peony blossoms in your garden for as long as possible each year.

When to Plant Peonies

It is best to plant herbaceous peonies in the fall. If you live in an area that freezes, plant peonies before the first frost and at least a month before the first freeze. While you can plant peonies in the spring, peonies planted at this time usually do not do as well and take much longer to bloom. So, if you happen to have some peonies to plant in spring, go ahead and plant them, but know that you will likely have to wait one to two years to enjoy their colorful blossoms.

Peonies do not like to be transplanted, but if you absolutely have to transplant them, do so in fall.

If you are planting tree peonies, you can plant them in either fall or spring with equal success.

How to Plant Peonies

The first step in planting peonies is to select a sunny location (or partially sunny if you live in a warmer area) that is protected from wind and where they will not compete with established shrubs or trees. They prefer neutral, well-draining soil. Dig a large hole and mix in any amendments you plan to use before planting your tubers. If you have the clay soil that is found in much of San Diego and Southern California, mix in some compost to lighten the soil before planting.

Once you have prepared the site, plant your tubers about three feet apart and between one to two inches below the surface of the soil in your flowerbed. When you are planting peonies, always remember to point the buds (aka eyes) upwards. Be sure you give your peonies plenty of water after planting them to help them adjust to their new home.

How to Grow Peonies

Peonies do not require much care once they are established. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, until they are established. Once they are established, you can cut back to watering about twice per week, but they will need extra irrigation during Southern California’s hot summers. If you live in a particularly hot, sunny area, it is a good idea to protect your peonies with some shade during hot weather until they are established.

Deadhead your peonies regularly and keep your garden weed free to avoid competition for nutrients. If you are growing herbaceous peonies, cut them back in the fall and they will come back in the spring. Tree peonies require fewer freezing hours in winter and, therefore, are sometimes a better choice for folks living in coastal Southern California. If you grow tree peonies, you do not need to cut them back in the fall.

Peony Pest Control

If you have ever seen peonies growing in a garden, you have likely noticed that ants really like them. While this may be a reason to not plant them right outside your back door or next to your outdoor dining room, the ants are actually beneficial to your blooms. Peonies attract ants with their nectar, and as the ants crawl inside to get to this nectar, they help the blossoms open. As an added benefit, ants also eat some of the pests that would otherwise eat your flowers, so they offer natural pest control and should not be sprayed or discouraged.

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Depending on the variety you choose, hollyhocks mainly bloom throughout summer or from mid-summer to early fall. Hollyhock is considered a biennial, which means the plant starts by growing foliage the first year, and then flowering and going to seed the second year. However, it can be grown as a perennial, and its self-sowing nature can keep you flush with hollyhocks for years to come.

How to Plant Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks can be planted in the spring or fall. If you live in an area where winter freezes are common, it is best to plant in spring. If frost and freezes are not an issue where you live, you can plant in the fall, which could reward you with first-year blooms after the seeds sprout in spring.

Choose a spot in your garden that gets full sun and is protected from the wind. Hollyhocks prefer well-draining soil. So, if you are working with a heavier soil, work compost into the soil to improve drainage before planting.

You can plant hollyhocks from seeds or seedlings. If you choose to plant hollyhocks from seeds, sow the seeds just below the surface of the soil about 18 inches apart. It is best to water the soil before sowing the seeds to avoid washing them away or having them shift positions before germination. You can also start seeds in seed pots or a seed tray indoors to later transplant into your garden around the last frost in spring.

If you prefer planting hollyhocks from seedlings, wait until a few weeks after the last frost, and then plant them 18 to 24 inches apart in your flowerbed.

Hollyhocks are self-sowing and will drop seeds during the blooming period that will germinate and grow, so, once you establish your hollyhocks, you can expect to continue to get new plants. This also means that your hollyhocks will creep into other areas of your garden, but you can transplant these seedlings to control the spread of your hollyhock population and to fill in open spots where tall plants are needed.

How to Care for Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks require regular watering until established and during hot, dry weather. They are drought tolerant, but you will see better blooms with more water. You will also have showier blooms if you fertilize your plants about once a month.

To keep your plants healthier and extend their lifespan, deadhead flowers as they fade. At the end of the blooming season when the flowers fade, cut your hollyhocks back to just a few inches above the grown. Spread a little compost around the base of the remaining stalks after pruning. Be sure not to cover the stalks with the compost or to place a thick layer of compost right against the stalks, since this can cause moisture retention around the stems that can rot them.

Problems with Growing Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks are susceptible to rust, which is a fungus that can be spread through water or the air. Keep your eye out for small spots on the leaves and remove any leaves that have these spots as soon as possible. This will help prevent the spread of spores to other leaves or nearby plants.

There are a few steps you can take to limit the chances of your hollyhocks acquiring this fungal disease:

• Ask your local garden center about rust-resistant varieties
• Apply a light dusting of sulfur to the leaves of your plants
• Water your plants low to the ground to avoid getting the leaves wet
• Regularly remove weeds and debris to ensure air circulation between plants
• Keep an organic fungicide on hand to treat rust as soon as it appears

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Freesia flowers come in shades of white, yellow, pink, mauve, red, orange, purple and lavender. This means that you should have no trouble finding a hue to complement your existing landscape design. Since they are often used in bouquets and floral arrangements, they are also an ideal choice for your cutting garden.

Planting Freesia Bulbs

Freesia flowers can be grown indoors or outdoors and in containers, raised garden beds or the ground. They are hardy in zones 9 and 10 where it is best to plant them in the fall. In cooler zones, it is best to plant them in spring.

Freesia plants prefer a sunny spot in your garden, but you may want to choose a spot with some afternoon shade, since freesia flowers sometimes refuse to bloom if it is too hot.

If your chosen spot does not already have fertile, well-draining soil, work compost into the top several inches to add nutrients and improve soil structure. Freesias have a long tap root, so you will want to turn the soil at least eight to 10 inches deep to loosen it and prepare the bed for your bulbs.

Freesia bulbs, most commonly known as corms, should be planted about two inches deep and about two to four inches apart. Plant the corms with the pointy end pointing up and water well to help your freesia bulbs settle in.

If you are planting freesia bulbs in containers, choose a tall container to allow the long tap root plenty of room to grow. Fill the container with nutrient-rich, well-draining potting soil mixed with compost. Plant the corms pointy end up, about two inches deep and about two or three inches apart.

How to Care for Freesia Plants

Freesia plants require little care once you have the corms in the ground. You will need to water your plants regularly and will want to keep the soil moist during the blooming season. A deep watering once or twice per week should work most weeks; you may need to water a bit extra when the weather is hot and dry.

It will take about 12 weeks for your freesia flowers to bloom and, once they do, you can cut some of them to add to floral arrangements.

Deadhead flowers as they fade, but do not remove the foliage. When the plant is finished blooming and begins to move towards its dormant state, the foliage will die back naturally. Once it has died back, you can remove it if you prefer a cleaner look for your garden.

If you live in zone 8 or below, you will either need to dig up the bulbs to store over winter and replant them in spring or purchase new corms to plant in spring. To store the bulbs, gently dig them up, allow them to dry, remove dirt and debris, place them in a bucket of peat moss, and store them in a spot that is dark, cool and dry, such as a garage or storage shed.

Alternatively, if your freesias are planted in containers, you can move them inside during the colder months.

If you live in zone 9 or 10, you can leave your bulbs in the ground over winter and they should return in the spring after they are finished resting.

How to Grow Freesia: Extra Tips for Growing Freesias

• Plant some of your freesia bulbs the first week, some the week after and some the following week to extend the blooming season in your garden.
• Your border or flowerbed will look even more beautiful if you avoid planting freesias in neat rows and plant them in groupings instead.
• If you are planting freesias for cut flowers, keep in mind that red and pink varieties are more fragrant, but white and yellow varieties will stay attractive longer after being cut.
• Your freesias may need support as they grow. Inexpensive, green, circular supports are usually the best choice for freesias, but you can also use other types of stakes if you have them on hand.

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To create the first impression you want people to have and increase your home’s curb appeal, consider these 14 front yard landscaping ideas.

How Do I Style My Front Yard for Landscaping? 

Your front yard is an opportunity to welcome people into a warm, inviting space. Curating the outdoor space from the curb to your front door creates curb appeal, which enhances visual appeal and increases property value. Good landscaping design complements your home’s architectural style, size, and building materials while showing off your style. 

Easy & Low-Budget Front Yard Landscaping Ideas 

Front yard landscaping can be costly, but there are budget-friendly DIY options that will add beauty to your yard. 

1. Try gravel

Gravel is an affordable ground cover that requires no water and helps inhibit weed growth, allowing rainwater to filter through the soil. This low-maintenance hardscape comes in various sizes and colors, so finding an option that fits your landscaping is easy. Using gravel is a great way to cover bare earth, create an inexpensive guest parking area, or increase home security by placing it so you can hear people or wildlife approaching your home.

2. Use mulch

Like gravel, mulch is an affordable ground cover that inhibits weed growth, quickly and easily covers bare earth, and does not require water. One of the main reasons you might choose mulch over gravel is that mulch offers a softer, warmer look. It depends on how you plan to use the area and what your overall goals are for your front-of-house landscaping.

3. Add a seating area

Your backyard is not the only spot for an outdoor living area to entertain friends or have breakfast with your family. If you have the space, add a seating area to your front porch to wave to neighbors while enjoying your morning coffee or greet your guests when they arrive. 

Taking Your Front Yard Landscaping to the Next Level 

If you’re a homeowner looking to invest in a more significant change, consider these mid-tier design ideas to increase your home’s curb appeal.

4. Grow a food garden

Vegetable gardens are usually part of the backyard landscaping but consider incorporating food garden design in your front yard. If you are concerned about keeping a front yard garden looking tidy, choose plants that look more ornamental, such as lettuces or herbs.

5. Plant fruit trees

Consider planting fruit trees in your front yard. Fruit trees are a great way to add shade, color, and visual interest while also growing fruits for your family and friends.

6. Plant an island flower bed

Island flower beds serve a variety of purposes. First and foremost, they are perfect for adding a pop of color, particularly if your yard is mostly one color, like a green lawn or a gravel driveway. 

If you have a no- or low-water landscape for water conservation but would like to give your yard a bit of life and a softer texture among hardscapes, an island flower bed is a great way to create just a small area that requires regular watering. Check out our article with 30 flower bed ideas for more ways to incorporate flower beds into landscaping.

7. Plant a rose garden

There is nothing quite like a rose garden to brighten your home’s exterior. Monochromatic, dichromatic, or as colorful as a rainbow, a garden bed of roses is a great way to add height, texture, and color to your landscape design.

8. Plant native plants on or near your curb

The sidewalk in front of your house is most likely a right-of-way easement. The narrow strip of land between the sidewalk and street is probably a utility easement you cannot block and need to keep for utility company access. 

This does not mean you should neglect these areas when landscaping your front yard. Curbside easements are a great spot to plant native plants, a cutting garden, or pollinators. Consider drought-tolerant ground cover, succulents, gravel, mulch, or synthetic grass for a low-maintenance option.

9. Employ colorful borders

Another way to quickly add color to your yard is to plant colorful borders or a picket fence along your home’s exterior. When designing these borders, choose low-maintenance plants. If opting for flowers, perennials like hydrangeas, lavender, and azaleas will return year after year, while annuals will require replanting. 

Plants with colorful blooms bring great texture and vibrance to a front yard garden design, making this an easy, quick way to enhance curb appeal.

10. Hide your trash cans

Most cities now have a three-bin refuse, recycling, and yard waste system. While this is progress for the environment and helps us easily do our part, it also means that we must figure out where to put three waste bins.

It’s ideal to store bins in an accessible, inconspicuous place that does not detract from your home’s curb appeal. Keep your bins out of sight by investing in an enclosure or designing your landscape to create a privacy screen.

Luxury Front Yard Landscaping Ideas

These luxury landscaping ideas can make a significant impact on your curb appeal. Luxury design projects typically require special skills, so you’ll want to hire a professional to ensure they are high quality. 

11. Leverage landscape lighting

Outdoor lighting is an essential part of landscape design and can transform the look of your home after dark. Illuminating entries and dark corners improves home security while lighting driveways, stairs, and walkways increases your family’s and guests’ safety.

Landscape lighting is also one of the easiest ways to accentuate architectural features or interesting landscaping features. Whether you add a few lights around your yard or an entirely new landscape lighting design, upgrading your outdoor lighting will increase your curb appeal. 

12. Add a paving stone driveway or walkway

If you want to make an immediate, significant improvement to your front yard, upgrade to a pattern paver driveway or walkway. Paving stones are available in various colors and styles, so you can find an attractive option to complement any architectural style. Pavers allow you to express your personal style and have unparalleled durability and longevity.

Learn more about paver driveway design here or get an estimate for your project here.

13. Install artificial turf

Landscape design for Southern California front yards is moving away from conventional lawns towards more water-saving options that offer plenty of color and texture without the upkeep of a natural grass lawn. 

If you like the look of a lawn but want a low-water, low-maintenance option, artificial turf offers the same look, feel, and function as natural grass, but requires no mowing, edging, irrigation, fertilizing, or aerating.

14. Add a water feature

A water feature provides a visual focal point to your yard. Bird baths are great additions that charm gardens or small front yards. If you want to create a grand entryway into your home, tiered fountains look elegant. 

Improve Curb Appeal When You Hire the Landscapers at Install-It-Direct!

Our experienced landscaping designers can help design a beautiful, functional front yard that improves curb appeal. Get a free estimate to start planning a front yard you love that increases your home’s curb appeal. 

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When gardeners talk about annuals, biennials and perennials, they are referring to the lifespan of the plant. Annuals, as the name implies, live through one growing season before they go to seed at the end of their life cycle. Biennials, also as the name indicates, mature and go to seed in two growing seasons.

Perennials are plants that live longer than two growing seasons as long as they are grown in conditions that meet their needs. This includes ornamental grasses, flowering plants, trees, shrubs, food plants, and tropical plants.

It should be noted that some annuals can be grown as perennials in coastal Southern California’s mild climate, such as lantana, which is grown as an annual in other parts of the country but thrives as a perennial here. Also, some tender perennials, such as tomatoes, are generally grown as annuals, even in Southern California.

Why Should I Plant Perennials?

Some gardeners prefer fast-growing, colorful annuals to fill their garden beds each year. This allows you to enjoy a fuller, more colorful garden faster, but it also requires you to replant your entire beds every year. If your goal is to keep blooms in your garden year round, this also means planting new annuals throughout the year.

It is generally better for most gardeners to plan a longer-term garden design that centers around perennials while also including annuals to quickly fill in gaps and to add splashes of color.

While some perennials die back each year, their roots are still alive in the soil, and they will come back year after year to provide a consistent, long-lived garden that does not require you to redesign the entirety of your flowerbeds annually. Plus, there are many perennials that retain their foliage year-round, particularly in climates like the one we enjoy in coastal California. This allows you to enjoy various colors and textures in your garden at all times and is also makes these perennial plants a good choice for privacy screens and more-permanent borders.

Both annuals and perennials require maintenance and some effort on your part. So, whether or not you should plant perennials depends on if you prefer replanting your flowerbeds every year or taking the time to maintain your perennials with tasks like cutting them back or dividing them in spring. The level of maintenance required will depend on the types of perennial plants you include in your landscape design.

When to Plant Perennials?

While it is generally considered best to plant perennials in the spring after the last frost or in the fall before the first frost, Southern California gardeners can really plant their perennials any time of year.

If you are working with bareroot plants, it is best to plant them during the recommended spring and fall planting seasons to help ensure a successful planting and to give your perennials the best chance of thriving. Since bareroot plants need to be in the ground as quickly as possible after getting them home, you should purchase these plants in the spring or fall after you have prepared your garden beds for planting.

Where to Plant Perennials?

Some perennials do best in partial shade, while others require full sun to thrive, so where you plant your perennial flowers will depend partly on which plants you purchase. It is always best to purchase your plants locally to help ensure that you are buying plants that will do well in your area.

Most gardeners include other elements in their gardens, such as trees, shrubs or annuals, but perennials act as the backbone of your garden and the element that pulls everything together for a cohesive overall look. Most of your garden planning should focus on the perennials, and then you can incorporate other elements to complete the desired visual.

If you are planting in borders, it may be of benefit to you to choose taller perennials that will be placed at the back of the flowerbeds and mid-height perennial flowers for the center of the beds so that the flowers you will be replacing every year (your colorful annuals) will be easy to access and plant in the front row of the border.

If you are planting in an island garden bed and plan on using both perennials and annuals, consider planting the perennials towards the center of the island so that the area for the annuals will be more accessible around the outer edge.

If you are planting perennial food plants, such as peppers or artichokes, in a vegetable garden, be sure to place them in a location where they can stay for at least a few years without overcrowding or blocking the sun from reaching other plants.

Should I Plant Perennials from Seeds or Plants?

Planting from seeds is less expensive and allows you to control the growing medium in which your plant starts are grown. If you live in an area that freezes, it can be helpful to start seeds indoors so that they will be ready to transplant into your garden after the last frost in spring. Alternatively, you can plant perennial seeds directly into the ground after the last frost, but you will have to wait longer to enjoy larger, more colorful plants. If you do not live in an area that freezes, you can start seeds directly in the ground pretty much any time of the year.

It is important to note that perennials started from seed generally do not flower until the second growing season, so saving money by starting from seeds requires more patience.

Starting from potted perennial plants purchased online or at a local nursery allows you to skip caring for plants as they germinate and mature into starts and move straight to transplanting them into your garden and enjoying larger plants with more color faster. If you purchase your plant starts locally, you also know that your plants are already accustomed to living in your climate and that you are buying perennials that can thrive where you live.

How to Plant Perennials

The first step in planting perennials is to determine your garden layout and come up with a plan for the plants you need to purchase. You do not want to create a hodgepodge look by picking up a few plants that appeal to you every time you go to Home Depot or Lowes for supplies for home improvement projects. Your perennials will be with you for years, so you need to purposefully select options that will do well where you live, that enhance the look of your yard and that can be incorporated into your overall garden design.

If you know the types of plants you want to include, be sure to consider each plant’s spacing requirements as you design your landscaping. Also, remember to keep in mind each plant’s blooming season so that you can place them for continued color and visual interest throughout the year.

Once you have your garden design, it is time to purchase the necessary plants and set them where they will go. Leave them in their pots for this and simply set the pot in the spot where you intend to grow each plant. This will allow you to confirm that each plant will work in its intended location and that your design looks as good in practice as it did in theory.

The next step is to prepare your soil. Remember, these plants will likely be in this same spot for at least a few years, so you want to make sure they can get the nutrients and level of drainage they need from the soil. Different plant varieties have different requirements for sun exposure, soil pH, drainage, and optimal soil conditions, this is why you must first come up with your overall garden design and know which plants you intend to use.

When it is time to move to the planting stage, dig holes that are a bit deeper than the pot that the plant is currently in and that are about twice the width of the pots. Mix in a bit of compost to further enrich the soil. Remove each plant from its current pot and gently break up the root ball a bit to help the system take root in the soil. Place your plant in the hole and fill the hole with soil around the plant.

As with any transplanting, you will then want to give your perennial plants enough water to thoroughly moisten the soil around the root system.

Plants require more water while they are becoming established, so it is a good idea to add a layer of mulch around your new perennials to help the soil retain moisture and to prevent the growth of weeds, which will compete for water and nutrients.

Ongoing Maintenance for Perennials

The maintenance of your perennials require will be specific to the plant varieties you choose for your garden. Some perennial flowers, grasses and plants require more maintenance than others, while some require hardly any maintenance at all.

All of your flowerbeds will require regular weeding to ensure that weeds are not taking away from the look of your garden and competing with your desirable plants for sun, nutrients and water.

During the first year, most perennials will require regular watering to keep the soil moist as they become established. Once they are established, you should be able to cut back to irrigating thoroughly once or twice per week. If you are on a once-per-week watering schedule, remember that you will need to water more often in the hotter months of summer.

Perennial flowers will often bloom more than once if you regularly deadhead spent flowers. This also allows the plant to redirect its energy into the root system and foliage, rather than sending energy to flowers that are no longer attractive and into seed production. Further, deadheading prevents seed development and dispersal, which will help you maintain the look of your garden without the extra effort of removing new plants coming up in unexpected places. In most cases, you can simply pinch the spent blooms off of the plants to deadhead perennials.

If you plan on fertilizing your plants, this is also a good time to apply fertilizer to help ensure continued growth and even more blooms in the next flowering season.

If you have varieties that die back in winter, you will need to cut back your perennials to just a few inches above the ground. While this may not be attractive during the winter months, your plants will come back in spring.

You will likely need to divide your perennials every few years. This allows you to prevent overcrowding in your flowerbeds and to discard any sections that are not performing well or that have root systems that have become woody. Dividing perennials also provide new plants for ongoing texture and color without trips to your local nursery.

To divide your perennial plants you will need to gently dig up the entire plant with the root ball. You can then divide the root system into multiple plants by using a shovel, garden trowel or knife to cut the root ball into sections or by teasing the roots apart. Once you have your divided sections, plant them in the ground in the same manner in which you planted the original plant.

Do not divide your perennials during their blooming season. The best time to divide perennial plants is in the spring before they bloom or in the fall after their flowers are spent.

Pest Control for Perennials

Some perennials are plagued by pests while others offer natural pest control and can even protect the plants around them from insect or molluscan invasions.

You may find that you need to protect your plants from snails and slugs, which love to dine on many annuals and perennials. You will know that you likely have a snail problem if you are noticing significant foliage loss that seems to happen at night or if you see the tell-tale trails that snails and slugs leave behind.

There are several natural ways you can protect your garden from snails and slugs, or you can purchase a commercial product that will keep them out of your garden or kill them if they dare to enter.

For other pests, check out our guide to natural pest control to help protect your plants.

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